Why Coconut Became the Controversial Oil

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As a child, every Saturday morning, like clockwork, my mom would forcefully apply coconut oil to my scalp. No matter how much I protested (I really hated the scent), she persevered, emphasizing the importance of hair care and looking after ourselves. And while I still view most of my beauty routines as vanity-driven, the concept of scalp care as a form of self-care has remained deeply ingrained in me over the years. After all, someone who loves themselves will prioritize the well-being of their hair. Which is why I’ve remained faithful to hair oiling and scalp massages, even though I now live far away from home (miss you, mom).

Lately, there has been a lot of discourse around whether or not coconut oil is good for your hair — something I find to be a personal attack, as South Asian women have been loyal to Parachute coconut oil since the beginning of time. No seriously, even when dinosaurs roamed the earth, you could find one with a long oil-slicked braid running down her back. To clear this up, I consulted with four hairstylists to explain the benefits of coconut oil, how to use it, and whether or not hair texture matters. I also sourced their expert recommendations, as well as the recommendations of Elle.com editors.

What are the benefits of coconut oil?

Coconut oil contains so many benefits for your whole body, inside and out. As far as hair is concerned, “Coconut oil adds nourishment, hydration, and shine to the hair. It can also take away some of the dry skin on the scalp during cleansing,” says Edward Tricomi, master hair stylist and co-founder of Warren Tricomi Salon.

According to celebrity hairstylist Albert Morrison, whose clientele includes Jennifer Hudson, Yaya Dacosta, and Mary J Blige, “Coconut oil is a natural product known for its lightweight nature, richness in zinc, vitamin K, and vitamin E. It’s ideal for oxygenating hair follicles and enhancing hair strength.” Some studies indicate that coconut oil can help prevent the bacteria causing dandruff and soothe the scalp.

Additionally, coconut oil tames frizz, enhances shine, acts as an effective anti-inflammatory, and aids in healing damaged hair by softening, hydrating, and fortifying brittle strands, as highlighted by hairstylist Kim Kimble.

How to use coconut oil for hair

There’s no one-size-fits-all way to use coconut oil for your hair, as there are many different approaches. One thing is for sure, though: it adds luster and shine to dull, dry hair. According to celebrity hairstylist Ericka Verrett, whose clients include Miranda Kerr, Arden Cho, and Lili Reinhart, one method involves using coconut oil as a pre-wash treatment for dry strands, helping to retain moisture and natural oils. She suggests massaging it into the scalp to balance the skin’s pH: “With its antimicrobial properties, it creates a protective barrier against bacteria and soothes dry or irritated scalp.” Kimble adds, “Coconut oil on the scalp not only stimulates hair growth but also leaves hair shiny and healthy-looking. It eliminates dandruff and acts as a natural moisturizer.”

If you prefer not to apply it directly to your scalp, you can nourish the ends of your hair with it. Start by shampooing your hair as usual, then comb coconut oil through from the midsection to the ends. After washing and conditioning, Kimble suggests using coconut oil as a detangler by rubbing a small amount through your hair and brushing it. Tricomi also recommends this method, suggesting you use a few drops (no more than two to four) to provide shine and hold. “Remember that using coconut oil can make your hair oily, so be mindful of the amount you use and the hairstyle you're pairing it with,” he advises.

Contrary to popular belief, coconut oil doesn’t need to be piping hot before use. “The best ways to apply coconut oil are to warm it between your palms or hands, or use a wax warmer to keep the oil in a liquid form during application,” advises Morrison. The key is to ensure it’s warm enough to avoid any lumps and maintain a smooth consistency. If using your hands doesn’t yield results, you can also use warm water. “Coconut oil turns solid at room temperature and only begins to soften around 78 degrees. Ensure your coconut oil is unrefined, as it boasts a higher nutritional profile and antioxidants,” says Verrett.

Does hair texture matter?

While coconut oil is suitable for all hair textures, it’s important to consider certain factors before dousing your hair in oil. Morrison explains, “For those with very small or tight curls, coconut oil is excellent for scalp treatments, hot oil treatments, and enhancing the shine of beautiful afros and twist outs.” If you have curly, dry hair, you can use coconut oil as a pre-shampoo to safeguard your hair from moisture-stripping shampoos, as advised by Kimble.

For medium curls, Morrison says, “It’s effective in minimizing frizz for wash-and-go styles.” Coconut oil can be applied more frequently to those with curly hair compared to individuals with straight hair. “Curly or coarse hair tends to absorb coconut oil better and maintain the curl's shape, whereas straight hair is more prone to becoming weighed down,” warns Tricomi.

As for straight hair, Morrison notes, “It’s great for taming flyaways but should be used very sparingly to prevent weighing down the hair.” If you have straight or thinner hair, make sure to apply coconut oil with a light touch, as it may add heaviness to your hair, and leave your hair looking greasy. “If you over-apply coconut oil, it could worsen dandruff as the type of yeast that causes dandruff feeds off lauric acid,” Kimble adds.

According to Verrett, coconut oil earned its bad rep due to its tendency to become too heavy if not used sparingly. This heaviness can lead to protein build-up, water repulsion, and the potential for greasy-looking hair, particularly for those with fine hair.“Using coconut oil in moderation with hair type and texture in mind will help avoid these cons, as well as show all the benefits in the hair,” says Verrett.

Is coconut oil bad for your hair?

Coconut oil has gotten a bad name and become a controversial oil—depending on who you ask. However, as both Morrison and Kimble note above, application is everything. Over applying coconut oil can cause protein buildup on your scalp, blocking your follicles, and preventing moisture from reaching your scalp. This can ultimately lead to dry, brittle hair. Coconut oil is also hydrophobic, meaning it repels water. This makes it great for sealing in moisture, so apply coconut oil to wet hair for maximum hydration. Another little trick is that you can apply coconut oil to dry hair to serve as a barrier for water. This is great if you are going swimming in a pool and want to protect your hair from oh-so-damaging chlorine water. So in short, no—coconut oil itself isn’t bad, how you are applying it to your scalp and strands may be.

Scalp Revival Charcoal + Coconut Oil Micro-exfoliating Scalp Shampoo

Looking for a haircare option that goes beyond basic coconut oil? Elevate your routine with Briogeo’s micro exfoliating shampoo — a true game-changer. Infused with binchotan charcoal to detoxify and coconut oil to hydrate, it’s your ultimate solution for a revitalized scalp and healthy hair.

Sephora rating: 4/5 stars

An ELLE Editor says: “This brand is founded by my dear friend Nancy Twine, but even if it wasn’t, I’d still use this product (which I actually did just yesterday). It’s great for post-protective styles. You can feel the micro exfoliants, but they dissolve as you work the product into your scalp. This is great for those with thick or curly hair as the product won’t get caught in your hair.” —Danielle James, Beauty Director ELLE.com

Organic Coconut Melt

Experience the goodness of 100 percent pure, organic coconut oil sourced from the Philippines with Kopari’s coconut melt. It can be used as a body lotion, makeup remover, dry shave oil, hair mask, and more. One product, endless possibilities.

Amazon rating: 4.4/5 stars

An ELLE Editor says: “Get the closest shave OF YOUR LIFE by swapping this organic coconut oil for your shaving cream. It leaves your limbs incredibly soft, but heed my warnings—move the razor slowly or else you're likely to knick yourself. Oh, and just have sure-footing in the shower... I’ve wiped out one too many times to count when things got slippery.” — Margaux Anbouba, Beauty Editor, ELLE

100% Extra Virgin Coconut Oil

Whether you’re on a mission to quench your skin’s thirst or add a touch of softness to your strands, SheaMoisture’s 100 percent Virgin Coconut Oil is your go-to solution. Free from parabens, phthalates, mineral oil, and sulfates, this versatile product provides head-to-toe nourishment, leaving no greasy traces behind.

Amazon rating: 4.6/5 stars

An ELLE Editor says: “There’s something to say about one product ingredient that lets the star shine. This coconut oil by Shea Moisture is no fuss with all the benefits and I use it for literally everything—a substitute to my body lotion, to nourish my scalp and hair, and even to remove stubborn eye makeup.” — Danielle James, Beauty Director ELLE.com

Organic Unrefined Virgin Coconut Oil, 15 Fl Oz (Pack of 2)

This cold-pressed (extracted without the use of heat, preserving the nutrients of the coconut) and unrefined coconut oil can fit in both your pantry or your beauty cabinet. It’s also an affordable option, so you can get the benefits of coconut oil without breaking the bank.

Amazon rating: 4.7/5 stars

An ELLE Editor says: “I keep a huge vat of coconut oil in my household stock at all times. The multi-use staple has nearly limitless uses and is one of my favorite full-body moisturizers. The price is right for this organic Amazon option, which is key when I'm buying in bulk. But make no mistake about it, it doesn't skimp on quality.”— Meg Donohue, Associate Fashion Commerce Editor

Organic Virgin Coconut Oil, Cold-Pressed, Fresh Flavor for Cooking Oil, Natural Hair Oil, Skin Oil, Massage Oil, USDA Organic, Unrefined Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (Aceite de Coco)

Nutiva Organics Coconut Oil is made from organic, cold-pressed, virgin coconuts sourced from non-GMO, sustainably farmed coconuts. In other words, it’s really pure and can provide you with a great moisturizer or deep conditioning hair treatment.

Amazon rating: 4.7/5 stars

An ELLE Editor says: “Although I also stand by budget coconut oils, sometimes it’s worth it to fork up a few extra dollars in exchange for higher standards. In a time when we all need to be doing anything and everything we can for the planet, I love that Nutiva is Climate Pledge Friendly on Amazon.”— Meg Donohue, Associate Fashion Commerce Editor

Coconut Oil

If you’re looking for a coconut oil that not only feels great on your hair and skin but also smells great, then Ligne St. Barths Coconut Oil is a great option. It has a delicious vanilla scent and can be applied to your skin after showering or added to your bath water to soften and moisturize.

Amazon rating: 4.3 / 5 stars

Our expert says: Tricomi recommends this coconut oil “due to how it heals the hair, bringing light and vitality back into damaged strands.”

Raw Coconut Cream - Moisturizing Facial Cleansing Makeup Remover

If you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, you’ll want to opt for something that is 100 percent pure, raw, non-comedogenic, fragrance-free, and unrefined, like RMS Beauty’s Raw Coconut Cream. It is safe for all skin types and can be used as a makeup remover, facial cleanser, moisturizer, and hair treatment.

Amazon rating: 4.1 / 5 stars

Our expert says: “RMS organic raw coconut cream is my all-time favorite. It hits all the marks, and in a pinch, I can cook with it. It can be used for hair, scalp, body, as a makeup remover, a skin hydrator, and I love it for my daughter’s eczema. Also, it’s cold-pressed and creamier than most,” says Verrett.

Organic Unrefined Virgin Coconut Oil

This Organic Unrefined Virgin Coconut Oil from Good & Gather is expeller-pressed, meaning that it maintains its coconut scent and taste. You can choose between the 14-ounce or 20-ounce bottle, both of which are a great deal to heal dry skin, soothe sunburns, prevent hair breakage, and more.

Target rating: 5/5 stars

Our expert says: Verrett suggests Good & Gather Organic Unrefined for those on a budget. He adds, “It’s expeller pressed, making it suitable for massages too.”

Ride or Die Detangling Leave-In Conditioner

While you could use plain coconut oil to hydrate your strands, you could also take the easy way out and use this TPH by Taraji Ride or Die Leave-In Conditioner. Not only does it have coconut oil, but it also contains agave, aloe, apple cider vinegar, avocado oil, baobab protein, biotin, castor oil, chamomile, flaxseed, olive oil, shea butter, and squalane oil.

Amazon rating: 4.6/5 stars

Our expert says: “It makes the hair more manageable and supple, which is great for both natural and straight styles,” Morrison comments.

Miracle Drops Coconut Oil

These Kaleidoscope coconut oil quick drops help to combat flaky, itchy scalp, effectively aid in hair growth, and add some much-needed shine to dry hair. The key is to drop, drop, drop onto the scalp three to five times a week to see results. Easy, right?

Amazon rating: 4.4 /5 stars

Our expert says: “A great edge tamer to add sleekness and control for edges and flyaways,” says Morrison.

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