The 9 best makeup looks from New York Fashion Week
The typical Michael Kors girl is healthy and bronzed, so for the spring 2014 show, makeup artist Dick Page added a romantic berry-stained lip to the mix. He layered two bronzers from the designer's new makeup line (Michael Kors Bronzer in Sporty and Sexy) to achieve a subtle, realistic glow. "It's like an old black-and-white movie, where the face is super soft," he said. For the rosy lips, Page dabbed onMichael Kors Lip Lacquer in Dame, blotted it several times, and powdered it for a soft, stained finish.
From a distance, the makeup at Jason Wu's spring 2014 show looked almost imperceptible. But up close, the glittering chocolate smoky eye that makeup artist Diane Kendal created was sultry and stunning. "We wanted the eyes to reflect light," she said. She traced a coffee-colored pencil (Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl in Black Coffee) along the upper lash line and in the crease in a half-moon shape. Then she smudged Lancôme Color Design Eye Brightening All-in-One 5 Pan Shadow & Liner Palette in Bronze Amour, a shimmery brown shadow, on top, leaving a tiny empty space in the center of the lid. That's where she patted loose gold glitter for a brilliant, reflective shine. She finished with black eyeliner and lots of blackLancôme Hypnôse Star Mascara.
Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury's bright orange, lilac, and Pepto-Bismol pink lips at the spring 2014 Prabal Gurung show had a powdery finish that was as fun as it was colorful. "Prabal always wants a modern take with a whiff of 1950s," said Tilbury. "So there's no mascara, no brows; it's just all about this neon pastel matte lip." First she lined the lips, overdrawing the shape and exaggerating the cupid's bow slightly. Then she painted the bold colors over that for an effect that was precise, crisp, and classic without being too retro.
To celebrate the brand's 25th anniversary, makeup artist Charlotte Willer drew on DKNY's roots. "It's a light take on '90s makeup," she said, "a very clean face with a pop of color." She mixed her own lip color, blending creamy bright orange and fire truck red shades (Maybelline New York Color Sensational Vivids Lipstick in Electric Orange and Neon Red) on the back of her hand before dabbing it onto models' lips with a brush. For a youthful flush, Willer dotted a deep red lip pencil over the apples of cheeks and then blended it with her fingers.
"Marc's always asking for the eyes. We always want to do something that has a little edge to it," said makeup artist François Nars of the green-and-blue-rimmed eyes he created at the Marc Jacobs show. Keeping the rest of the face minimal (just a bit of foundation and concealer where needed), he traced either a green (Nars Kalisté Eyeliner Pencil) or blue (Nars Larger Than Life Eyeliner in Blue Dahlia) eye pencil along the lower lashes, starting from the inner corners and pulling it into a faded cat's-eye. Nars dotted the pencil between the top lashes and finished with several coats of mascara (he mixed Nars Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara and Nars Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara).
When makeup artist Tom Pecheux describes a look as "the best makeup of the season," you know it's going to be good. The dewy skin, cherry red lips, and whitewashed eyes at Altuzarra were nothing short of ethereal. Pecheux dusted M.A.C. Eye Shadow in Gesso, a chalky powder, on the cheekbones and swiped the same shade on the eyes, applying it lightly with a fluffy brush. "If you use a brush that's the slightest bit hard, you're going to create something opaque and look like a panda," said Pecheux. "I wanted it to be pure." He painted M.A.C. Lip Mix in Red on the lips and topped them with loose red pigment for a velvety finish.
It was easy to identify Marisa Berenson as the inspiration for Tilbury's makeup at the Donna Karan show: Skin was golden, eyes were shimmery, and the feel was full-on '70s. "It's like what nature would give you, but a pumped up, glam version of it," Tilbury said. To get the look, she blended two shades ofM.A.C. Face & Body Foundation, dusted a ruddy amber blush on the apples of the cheeks, and swept M.A.C. Mineralize Skinfinish Natural in Medium Deep and Dark over the cheekbones and temples for warmth. For the bronze smoky eyes, Tilbury blended a golden brown cream shadow over the lids, rimmed the upper lids with a dark brown pencil, and "coated every single lash with lots of mascara."
Bare lashes were trending on the spring runways—but mascara enthusiasts, there was something for you, too. The ladylike look Kendal created for the Carolina Herrera show involved not one but two sets of false lashes on bottom and top. "We're doing a modern take on Twiggy," she said. To get the doll-like effect, she emphasized the top lash line with mascara, black liner, and black eyelash glue, keeping the bottom (somewhat) more natural with clear glue.
To complement the casual working-girl theme of the Marc by Marc spring 2014 collection, Page went straight for the eyes. He applied a shimmery pale blue cream shade (Shiseido Makeup Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Ice) to lids, then swept a bold Yves Klein blue powder (from the Shiseido Limited Edition Eye Color Bar palette) on top in a "kind of crescent, half-moon shape." It was diffused on the edges for a halo effect, so though the blue was definitely noticeable, it was slightly grungy, not stuffy or costume-y.
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The New York runways were full of barely there, understated makeup. Even when the collections-and models-were gorgeous enough to make that work, we found ourselves longing for a bright splash of color or a sexy smoky eye. Luckily, not everyone stuck to the minimalist-cough, cough, boring-aesthetic. Here, the first looks we plan to steal.