This Tile Museum Is Palermo's Best Kept Secret
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Palermo is Italy’s most underrated tourist destination. Known for its rich history, abundant street food, and unbelievable beaches, the capital of Sicily gets overlooked when measured up against other Italian favorites like Milan and Rome. After exploring Palermo for two days, I desperately want to go back. (I knew that would be the case before I even left!) The city is lively, artistic, charming, and a bit gritty. It may not be for everyone. But as a New York City resident, Palermo’s atmosphere feels welcomingly familiar yet completely unknown under its golden glow.
On my short visit to the city with House Beautiful’s former video producer Kaitlin Kemp, I was able to experience a significant slice of what Palermo has to offer thanks to collaborative planning with Imago Artis Travel. Below, scan everything that made our design-forward itinerary including where we stayed, shopped, explored, and dined. While all of these are editor and local-approved recommendations, some are truly can’t-miss experiences (hello, secret tile museum!)—whether you visit Palermo for a week or weekend.
The Accommodations
Situated on the island of Sicily’s northwestern coast, Palermo has no shortage of hotels. We stayed at Villa Igiea, a 19th-century, Art Nouveau palazzo overlooking the Gulf of Palermo. The five-star hotel with a storied past once acted as a private villa, and it still feels that way. Beyond a gated entrance, guests are greeted by the building’s golden facade with turrets and arched windows. The spacious property is perfectly positioned for catching hypnotic sunrises over lush gardens and docked boats on the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Villa Igiea—originally designed by famed architect Ernesto Basile, painter Ettore de Maria Bergler, and designer Vittorio Ducrot—underwent an extensive restoration by Rocco Forte Hotels and reopened in 2021. Olga Polizzi, Rocco Forte’s deputy chairman and director of design, and renowned architects Paolo Moschino and Philip Vergeylen of Nicholas Haslam Studios worked together to preserve and revive the property. The refreshed interiors honor the building's past and are an homage to Sicily. They feature locally sourced marble, tiles, and artwork. The color palette—including sage green, pomegranate yellow, blue hibiscus, and amber—reflects the Sicilian countryside and coastline.
The 72 guest rooms and 28 suites are split between the main building and the nearby Palazzina Donna Franca building. Every room is meant to feel like its own private residence. I stayed in one with a sea view, and it was nothing less than magical. Beyond being greeted by delightful music playing throughout the room and a three-tiered stand of fruits and desserts (including five Sicilian cannolis, which I regret not eating in full), I admired the room’s airy, coastal feel. The custom wallpapered entry, barrel-vaulted ceiling, and patterned tile flooring in the bathroom brought in character. Antique furniture and sumptuous fabrics on the canopied king bed completed the luxury yet homey feel, while the arched French casement window almost made me believe I was living a fantasy.
The property’s other alluring features include an outdoor swimming pool, tennis courts, a spa, and a fitness center. From culinary classes to beach club excursions, the hotel also has a range of experiences for guests to indulge in on and off-site.
The Shopping
Palermo is packed with lovely shops offering exquisite, handmade home goods. Some are located on main streets while others are tucked away and feel like a crossover between a museum and shop. Add these stops to your list, and there's a good chance you'll return home with a special item or two.
Shahidi Carpets & Ceramics is a candy land for carpet fanatics. The almost cave-like interior is filled with handmade rugs, textiles, and ceramics. Located in the city’s historic center on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, one of the oldest streets in Palermo, the shop also specializes in the restoration and washing of any carpet type. The friendly, knowledgeable staff makes the experience even better. (I visited this shop twice because I had to go back for an intricately patterned textile that I couldn’t leave without and currently use as a tablecloth for my dining table!)
Ditta Parlato Tessuti is more than a fabric shop that sells bedding, tablecloths, quilts, and even underwear. Established in 1858, the family-owned shop is located in the Piazza Croce dei Vespri and is worth visiting for a tour of the space alone as it features refreshed ceilings and floral-themed Murano glass chandeliers among the floor-to-ceiling shelving of fabrics.
Craftsman Nino Parrucca has been making handmade ceramics—plates, vases, tiles, and decorative objects—for more than fifty years. They feature motifs tied to the myths and culture of Sicily in vibrant colors. That includes Moors head vases, which The White Lotus fans may recognize, and pinecones, which are a symbol of prosperity.
Head to Colori del Sole for silkscreen printed designs—inspired by the Mediterranean’s shapes and colors—on fine fabrics. The shop sells tapestries, tablecloths, kitchen towels, placemats, bedding, curtains, tote bags, clothing, and other accessories as well.
The Dining
In Palermo, you can count on good food. Whether you’re after a local comfort dish, a street snack, an aperitivo, or a multi-course meal, the options are aplenty. Here are the best places we tried.
Antica Focacceria San Francesco specializes in Sicilian comfort food. The ancient chapel turned “place of worship for the palate,” as the establishment’s website puts it, is an excellent option for sit-down meals and street food on the go. We stopped in for cazzilli (potato croquettes), panelle (chickpea fritters), and a few other bites to enjoy as we explored the surrounding area.
Situated in the historic center of Palermo, Osteria dei Vespri offers everything from fresh pasta and seafood to local cheeses and classic desserts. The extensive wine list includes more than 600 Italian and foreign labels. Stone-lined interiors and outdoor seating set the scene for enjoying a delicious meal.
Whether you go for breakfast or dinner, Florio Restaurant is a must-visit dining destination at Villa Igiea. The Belle Époque era-inspired atmosphere, constructed in 1900, takes on an elegant green-and-white color palette. Floor-to-ceiling windows bathe the interiors in natural light and lead to the outdoor patio, where patrons can admire a view of the sea while indulging in locally sourced cuisine.
Fans of The White Lotus should make it a point to visit Igiea Terrazza Bar, which was tapped as a filming location for season two. Located in sandstone vaults with wrought iron chandeliers and dramatic frescoes, the historic bar serves cocktails inspired by the famous and glamorous patrons who have visited the bar throughout its more than 120-year history.
At Farmacia Alcolica, the menus are housed in empty medicine boxes and the cocktails are inspired by various medications as an ode to the former pharmacy it’s housed in. Visitors can expect eccentric decor inside, including bikes covered in string lights hanging from the ceiling, neon signs, and mismatched furniture.
While on a street food and art tour led by a local (and arranged by Imago), we stopped by Antico Caffè Spinnato for gelato. Established in 1890, the café isn’t solely a gelato shop. It sells pastries, desserts, and even pizza.
The Exploration
There’s much to discover in Palermo—from historic landmarks to secret museums. While I didn’t make it to one of the city’s many famous beaches on my first visit, I have included one recommended by the residents of Palazzo Francavilla (more on that below!) as it’s at the top of my list for when I return one day.
No one should leave Palermo without visiting the Museo delle Maioliche. Located in a historic palace apartment, the tile museum features a collection of nearly 5,000 pieces, mainly from Sicily and Campania, displayed throughout eight rooms. The owner started collecting the glazed floor and wall tiles when he was just 11 years old. The rooms also house smaller collections of antique toys, tin boxes, vintage objects and writing implements, and impressive furniture (including a table made of paper mache, wrapped in leather, and embellished with gold leaf and mother of pearl!). Since the museum is part of the owner’s home, it has very specific hours and his pet cats can be seen lounging around. With an unassuming entrance void of street signage, this is a true hidden gem.
Through Imago, we took a private tour of Palazzo Francavilla where we viewed incredible interiors steeped in history and had the opportunity to chat with the family that lives there over an aperitivo. Built in 1783 as the country residence of the Dukes of Sperlinga and eventually restored by architect Ernesto Basile, the palace overlooks the Piazza Verdi in the center of Palermo. The rooms with frescoed ceilings, antique furnishings, and endless art have even been tapped as filming locations for productions including The Lions of Sicily.
Quattro Canti, officially called Piazza Vigliena, marks the intersection of two main streets: Via Maqueda and the Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The iconic Baroque square is home to ornate statues of the four Spanish kings of Sicily and the four patronesses of Palermo. Each corner also symbolizes the four seasons, and the landmark is a perfect place to start your exploration of the city’s historic center.
The Sicilian coastline practically begs visitors to lounge by its picturesque beaches. If desire to do just that, consider venturing to Mondello Beach (which is located roughly 15 minutes from the hotel Villa Igiea). The fine white sand and turquoise waters define the idyllic setting.
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