A Snob’s Guide to Marrakech
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You could say the so-called Pink City has it all. It’s North African and European, ancient and modern, traditional and au courant. For centuries traders from Timbuktu bedded down here with their goods; these days it’s caravans of holidaymakers from all over. See the sights: the 12th-century Koutoubia Mosque, the 16th-century Ben Youssef Madrasa, the 1,000-year-old fun fair that is Jemaa el-Fna square after dusk. And then just succumb: to Marrakech’s sumptuous hotels, its restaurants, clubs, and shops. And remember, it may feel far, but it’s just a hop across the Pond (or the Med). You’ll be sipping mint tea before your Ambien wears off.
For the Heavy Hitter
Are you ready to cash out your digital dollars on personal butlers, private dinners, and debauched parties? Here’s the no-expense-spared MO Marrakech knows so well.
STAY: Have you ever been asked your ideal plunge pool temperature prior to check-in? Strolled through a lobby inspired by a 16th-century center of Islamic learning? Trained with a view of the Atlas Mountains? You will at the new Oberoi Marrakech. Oh, and the Royal Suite gives you a 7-bedroom option, should your entourage require it.
DINE: Why book a regular restaurant when, for about $400 per person and three hours of your life, you can join nine high-rolling strangers at Singulier Pluriel, in a riad kitchen at a secret location in the Medina, to watch Michelin-starred chef Benjamin Collombat prepare up to 25 dishes (like chicken with raspberry and harissa, and white chocolate cauliflower)?
DO: If your psilocybin regimen is up for a trip to the desert, throw a what-happens-in-the-luxury-tent-stays-in- the-luxury-tent all-nighter that will rival Coachella. The tents belong to the new Caravan Agafay, from hipster glamping brand Habitas, less than an hour outside the city, and Cobblestone Private Travel (see To Book, below) can make all of the arrangements. Think sunset camel rides, belly dancers, fire eaters.
The Weekend Warrior
There’s no better way to put your PTO to use than by hitting some Marrakech classics (old and new).
STAY: The 100-year-old La Mamounia has been called the “Vegas of Marrakech” for its more-is-more aesthetic, and “one of the best hotels I’ve ever used” (by Winston Churchill). Completely renovated in 2020, it oozes orientalist vibes, from its lobby decked in velvet and crystal to its arched doorways and turquoise-tiled hammam. The pièce de résistance is the 700-square-foot Murano glass–bottomed pool in a 20-acre walled garden—all of it just steps from the Medina.
DINE: Bypass tourist haunts like Nomad for L’mida, which is on two levels of a traditional riad in the Medina, including the roof. Its Ibiza-meets-Casablanca vibe goes well with veggie spreads, salads, and frothy mocktails. For dinner head to Sahbi Sahbi, a hot spot in Gueliz, the shop- and art gallery–filled “ville nouvelle.” Designed by French firm Studio KO, the restaurant has an entirely female team, an open kitchen making traditional dishes, and a well-dressed clientele.
DO: To tour the famed Jardin Majorelle at the former home of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, book the 6 p.m. slot, and pair it with a visit to the Museum of Berber Arts next door. It’s a superb 600-piece homage to the culture of the pre-Arab inhabitants of North Africa (Morocco’s largest ethnic group), renowned for their finery.
The Hedonist
If your Marrakech mood is shopping-dining-hammam-repeat, here’s the feel-good lineup.
STAY: There is no opulence like the Royal Mansour, a passion project of King Mohammed VI designed, in keeping with traditional North African home architecture, for utmost privacy and decorated by master Moroccan artisans. Its 53 three-story riads are set in a large garden with a huge pool, and the 27,000-square- foot spa and four restaurants are reason enough to check in—including the Italian Sesamo, from three-Michelin-star chef Massimiliano Alajmo.
DINE: St. Barts has Nikki Beach, and Marrakech has Comptoir Darna, a restaurant turned club that’s the biggest nightly party in the city for the well-heeled set. Think dining and dancing on velvet banquettes while belly dancers make their way through the crowd. Book dinner at 9 p.m., as the party will get going around 10. You’re not getting up early, anyway.
DO: Shop, shop, shop. One of the best streets (it’s fixed-price) in the Medina is Rue Dar El Bacha (named for a former palace that now houses one of the city’s chicest cafés). Try Fenna for womenswear, Chez Bel Haj for kaftans, and Galerie d’Antiquités Dar EL Bacha for home. Newer Gueliz is rife with upscale boutiques, including handbags at Maroc’n Roll and Berber rugs at Some Slow Concept.
TO BOOK
Michael Diamond of Cobblestone Private Travel has organized custom trips to Morocco for two decades. He can assist with hotels as well as restaurants, shops, excursions, and hand-picked guides who will give you entree to Moroccan history and culture. Email: Michael@cobblestonprivatetravel.com
This story appears in the Summer 2023 issue of Town & Country. SUBSCRIBE NOW
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