Ready to cut back? When it comes to pruning, timing and placement are everything

Death, taxes and pruning strike fear in some people. While the fear of death and taxes is real, we can ease the apprehension of pruning. Pruning like a pro is about knowing the appropriate timing and where and how to cut. Understanding the basics makes the task easier.

Pruning is the removal of some growth to improve the plant’s health. While pruning does remove growth, it’s important to remember that it also stimulates new growth. Proper pruning is about controlling the new shoot development.

The timing should follow the plants’ growth cycle. Deciduous trees and evergreens are best pruned in late winter before new spring growth begins. Shrubs are pruned based on how they bloom.

Flowering shrubs bloom either on new or old wood. Examples of old wood flowering shrubs include early spring bloomers like lilac and forsythia. It is best to prune these after they flower in the spring. Shrubs blooming in March, April or May set their flower buds during the previous season, overwinter, then flower. You remove those spring buds and flowers when you prune them in late winter before they bloom.

Shrubs blooming on new wood are pruned late winter before or after bud break. These will flower on their most recent growth in June through late summer. Examples are butterfly bush, crepe myrtle and Rose of Sharon.

The next step is knowing where to cut. Make pruning cuts in two locations. Make the removal or thinning cut at a branch angle, crotch or fork. Cutting back to another side branch removes growth in this area. Use removal cuts to reduce the size of a plant or open it up to light penetration for better flowering.

Make a heading-back cut above a plump bud that points outward instead of inward. This cut reduces height, causes increased side branching, forces lower buds to grow and develop, and produces a bushier plant with more flowers.

It is best to use both types of cuts when pruning overgrown shrubs. Let’s walk through the process. Stand back, look at the shrub, and think about your goals. Reduce size, remove old woody stems, improve shape? Once the goals are known, you are ready to prune.

The first step is easy. Cut out all the dead wood. Dead wood provides no benefit, and you can remove it anytime. You don’t have to work around any schedule.

Next, implement the heading-back cuts. These will reduce the height and open the plant to allow for vigorous shoot development. This step removes overgrown, less productive branches clear to the ground on shrubs that sucker or send out new shoots from the base.

One last tip. Shearing destroys the plant’s natural form by randomly cutting the branches, resulting in uncontrolled growth and more shearing. Lastly, head back a lower bud to the desired size. These cuts are made one at a time with loppers or hand pruners, not hedge shears.

These tips will empower you and help reduce the fear of pruning, making yard work more enjoyable and less stressful. Make plans to attend the Johnson County Healthy Yards Expo on March 11 at the Shawnee Civic Centre, 13817 Johnson Drive. This event will help you learn about earth-friendly lawn and garden practices. Learn more at www.johnson.ksu.edu.

Dennis Patton is a horticulture agent with Kansas State University Research and Extension. Have a question for him or other university extension experts? Email them to garden.help@jocogov.org.