Polish-born Wichitan missed pierogi, so she started a business that serves them.
Wichita diners have easy access to all kinds of dumplings that originated in other countries: Chinese wontons. Indian samosas. Korean mandu. Spanish empanadas. Japanese gyoza.
But until recently, Wichita would have been hard pressed to find Polish pierogi — traditional dumplings stuffed with potatoes and cheese that are a staple in Polish homes.
Back in September, when the summer season had already wound down at the Saturday-morning Old Town Farm & Art Market in Wichita, Caroline Brzuszek-Egan and her husband, Matt Egan, became tenants and launched their new business — Polka Pierogi.
Caroline was born in Poland but moved to New York City when she was 3, and she met her husband when both were living there. After the COVID-19 pandemic hit, the couple decided to relocate to Kansas — Matt grew up in El Dorado — and they had a baby in November of 2022.
But Caroline started to miss the Polish food she grew up eating and that she could find so easily in Brooklyn’s Greenpoint neighborhood — a Polish enclave overflowing with Polish cuisine, especially pierogi.
“Pierogi is something you learn how to do when you’re in a Polish household,” Caroline said. “We make them for Christmas, for Easter and for special occasions. That’s just something you grow up watching your mom and aunts and grandma and cousins make.”
Caroline decided she’d like to share pierogi with Wichita, and the couple decided to start a business. They found a commercial kitchen where Caroline could prepare the dumplings, and they rented space in the center of the farmers market, next to the other vendors who serve ready-to-eat items. Each week until the market closed in December, Caroline would bring her pierogi, and when the market reopened for the season two weeks ago, she relaunched the business, selling out before 11 a.m.
Caroline pan fries the pierogi, which are made in advance with homemade dough stuffed with different fillings. Matt, the extrovert in the couple, takes orders from customers.
Every now and then, traditional potato-and-cheese pierogi are on the menu, but Caroline also has come up with fillings she feels will appeal more to an American palate: chipotle chicken, potato with feta and garlic, or a pizza-themed pierogi stuffed with ricotta, mozzarella and kielbasa bits. She also makes sweet pierogi: strawberry with chocolate hazelnut sauce or apple with homemade caramel sauce. Blueberry pierogi are also a crowd favorite, Caroline said. One order contains three pierogi. The flavors switch from week to week.
Caroline said she wasn’t sure if Kansas would embrace her Polish fare, but the reception at the market has been “surprisingly very positive.” She’s already developed a following of loyal customers who come back week after week.
“I really did not expect so many people to be like, ‘Oh, I love pierogi. I always wished there was somewhere that made them fresh.’”
The couple plans to be at the market most every Saturday through the rest of the season, Caroline said. The only reason they’d miss it is if they have trouble finding care for their 16-month-old daughter. People can find out which flavors they’ll be offering on their social media channels: Polka Pierogi on Facebook and polka_pierogi on Instagram.
Though she’s satisfied with the market for now, Caroline said, she does have a bigger dream for her pierogi business. Eventually, she’d like to start a brick-and-mortar “Pierogarnia” — a shop that just serves pierogi all day. People would be able to stop in to order the dumplings on the go or grab a dozen and take them home.
“That would be my dream,” she said.
The Old Town Farm & Art Market is open Saturdays through Dec. 21. It’s at First and Mosley, and the hours are 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.
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