Oregon Outback: Summer Lake area has hot springs, dark skies, adventure and thick steaks

Everything feels just a little bigger in the Oregon Outback.

The mountains are steeper, history deeper, night skies darker and cuts of steak thicker than anyone has a right to expect in remote southcentral Oregon.

And don’t get me started on the birds.

I’ve seen vast flocks on rivers and wildlife refuges. But the scale and sound of migration season at Summer Lake Wildlife Area boggles the senses.

Over spring break I returned to the Oregon Outback for the first time in a few years to explore just a few of the places I’d missed, including Summer Lake. It reminded me how great this area is for a spring road trip.

Here’s a few ideas for places to stay, explore and eat near Summer Lake.

Summer Lake and Winter Ridge

On Dec. 16, 1843, Capt. John C. Frémont and a mapping expedition were trekking across a snow-covered plateau when they came to a cliff and saw a remarkable sight.

“More than a thousand feet below, we looked into a green prairie country, in which a beautiful lake, some twenty miles in length, was spread along the foot of the mountain,” Frémont wrote. “Shivering on snow three feet deep, and stiffening in a cold north wind, we exclaimed at once that the names of Summer Lake and Winter Ridge should be applied to these proximate places of such sudden and violent contrast.”

The name is fitting, especially in the spring. It can feel sunny and pleasant along Summer Lake while almost directly overhead, it’s snowing on 30-mile long Winter Ridge.

The dynamic scenery is the the first thing you notice upon driving here. It has the “whoa” factor as much as any place in Oregon.

The interesting thing is that while Summer Lake looks cool — 15 miles long and sparkling — it’s not a recreation spot itself. The lake is alkaline and shallow — not a place to boat, swim or explore. It’s really the places around its edges that create the magic.

Base camp: Summer Lake Hot Springs

This has become one of Oregon’s more beloved hot springs, but what struck me most in visiting was it’s still a small, low-impact site. You would never refer to this as a resort.

You can rent funky and cool cabins here, with geothermically warmed floors, along with RV spots and campsites. But the entire compound blends into the landscape so well it’s hard to spot it from a distance. It’s a place that lets the scenery and hot springs do the work.

Speaking of the hot springs. It has three outdoor pools open all night. By day, you can soak and enjoy views of the aforementioned Winter Ridge. At night, you can view one of the world’s darkest skies, part of the newly-established Oregon Outback International Dark Sky Sanctuary.

By mid-May, an indoor swimming pool bathhouse opens up that allows for a little bit more space and access for hot springing.

Nearby gem: Summer Lake Wildlife Area

Nothing quite prepares you for the number of birds here during migration season at this wildlife area on the north side of the lake. The sky and wetlands are packed, and the sound is a chaotic symphony of chirps and trills as hundreds of thousands of birds migrate through here each year on the Pacific Flyway.

The wildlife area is 18,941 acres of wetlands and streams that becomes a temporary home for all manner of shorebirds and waterfoul, from tundra swans to western sandpipers to sandhill cranes.

The area has three main seasons for visitors, according to manager Jason Journey. There is the spring migration (March to May) and fall migration (August to September). Both times are good for birdwatching, hiking, photography and canoeing around the streams and wetlands. Apparently, mosquitoes and flies make it unpleasant during peak-summer.

The third option is hunting season, which runs from October to late January.

Ana Reservoir

The water in the wildlife area and Summer Lake comes directly from Ana Reservoir, a scenic place good for boating, swimming and fishing.

For anglers, the area is probably most famous for its population of hybrid striped bass — often known as “wipers.” They were stocked years ago to control the population of invasive tui chub, and the largest wiper on record was caught here in 2009.

Deepest history in North America

The history near Summer Lake goes deeper than just about anywhere else in North America.

Summer Lake is now about 15 miles long, which seems large, but it was once far larger. Prehistoric Lake Chewaucan once covered 461 square miles at depths of up to 375 feet.

The waves from that ancient lake cut a series of caves, now famously known as the Paisley Caves, which are home to the oldest evidence of human habitation in North America — up to 14,300 years ago.

Evidence of those ancient people can be found at Picture Rock Pass Petroglyphs Site, just north of Summer Lake on the side of Highway 31, likely created between 7,500 and 12,000 years ago.

Fort Rock Cave tours

The Paisley Caves aren’t the only famous historical site. Head to Fort Rock State Park, and you’ll not only be treated to a hike through a massive colosseum of stone, but you can also tour caves where the earliest known footwear on Earth was discovered.

Fort Rock Cave tours offered throughout spring and early summer cost $20. This is the site where the famous sagebrush sandals were discovered and dated to 9,350 to 10,500 years old.

Eat at the Cowboy Dinner Tree

The best restaurant in Oregon is a little place nestled deep in the Oregon Outback, about an hour from Summer Lake, called the Cowboy Dinner Tree. Their menu is simple: A gigantic top sirloin steak or a whole roasted chicken, plus salad, soup, sweet rolls and dessert.

It’s a place you don’t order your meal or make requests. There’s no vegetarian options, you can’t pick your dressing or even how your steak is cooked. You eat what you’re given. And they only take cash.

That model would seem to doom a restaurant, but the simplicity allows the restaurant to focus on doing what they do really well. The steak was the best I’ve ever eaten, cooked to that perfect spot that's rare but not raw. The chicken was flavorful and delicious.

The restaurant opened in 1992, but legend is that it goes back to the early 1900s. The place where the restaurant is located used to be a little shack where cowboys would seek shade under a juniper tree. Sometimes a chuckwagon would park there and cowboys and ranchers would gather to eat. Before it was the Cowboy Dinner Tree it was originally called the dinner tree.

The inside is rustic and packed with character, including lots of $1 bills tucked into the corners of pictures and tables. People started putting them there around a decade ago. The restaurant collects them every now and again and donates them to local charity.

From the setting to the scene, there is no place quite like it. Just make sure to make reservations way ahead of time by calling 541-576-2426.

Ride the Christmas Valley sand dunes

Riding ATVs is popular at the Christmas Valley sand dunes, but there is some hiking as well.

Visit Paisley

This town of 250 features the Pioneer Saloon and Restaurant and the Paisley Mercantile, both worth checking out. And also …

Fly-fish the Chewaucan

If you’re fly-fishing, check out the much beloved Chewaucan River for rainbow trout. I’m saving this adventure for my next trip to the Oregon Outback, but there's a decent amount of information out there about it.

Hike Winter Ridge or Hager Mountain

For those looking to get into the alpine regions of the area, there are hikes on Winter Ridge, right above Summer Lake, that typically open up in late May. There is also Hager Mountain, a challenging mountain that climbs to a lookout. I wrote about staying overnight in the lookout back in 2016.

With this much possible adventure — and food — there’s good reason to visit, and keep coming back.

Zach Urness has been an outdoors reporter in Oregon for 15 years and is host of the Explore Oregon Podcast. Urness is the author of “Best Hikes with Kids: Oregon” and “Hiking Southern Oregon.” He can be reached at zurness@StatesmanJournal.com or (503) 399-6801. Find him on X at @ZachsORoutdoors.

This article originally appeared on Salem Statesman Journal: Summer Lake in southcentral Oregon offers hot springs, dark skies