Want your yard to survive the extreme Texas heat? Hint: don’t plant these trees.

As I type this, North Texas is enduring one of the worst spells of hot weather in its history. I suspect that there are thousands of people planning on planting fast-growing shade trees as quickly as possible. Visions of energy savings, cooling breezes and enticing recreational spaces are dancing in their heads. However, there are some giant stumbling blocks that absolutely must be pointed out. Please read my warnings.

If you’re thinking about inviting fruitless mulberries, silver maples, cottonwoods, sycamores, weeping willows, catalpas, ashes, mimosas and other fast-growing trees into your landscape sometime soon, look around you the next several weeks. See how the fast trees fare after these record temperatures and prolonged drought.

Fast growth, you see, isn’t an asset. It’s a big liability. Fast-growing trees use inordinate amounts of water. When they can’t get that water rapidly enough, whether by city curtailments or because of their own internal conducting tissues’ inability to transport the water fast enough, those racehorse trees start shedding leaves. You’ll soon see what looks like a premature autumn beneath those trees. Mulberries, maples and catalpas have been known to lose upwards of half of their leaves in July — not a pleasant site as they litter the lawn. And they quit growing, so that fast shade possibility goes out the window anyway.

Fast growth also equates to weak wood. I’ve pointed that out before here. It becomes most evident when Bradford pear branches split during wind or ice storms or when Siberian, American or lacebark elm trunks break from internal decay. Hackberries seem to end up in many folks’ yards — not because someone bought them, but because they were allowed to grow after a bird “gifted” them. Hackberry branches are notoriously weak.

The takeaway from all of this, then, is that you want to plant trees for the long haul, not just for fast shade. Buy the best species, and buy the best quality trees of those best species. Deal with a full-time independent retail garden center that will have specialists on site to assist you in your selection and who can deliver, plant and guarantee your tree for you. Fall is the best tree-planting time, so it’s fine to start planning those plantings now.

Water Restrictions and Prioritizing Plants

With many area cities and water supply districts asking or requiring us to cut back on water consumption outdoors, I have a few thoughts that might be of help.

Decide which plants would be most difficult for you to replace. We started out addressing shade trees, and most folks would logically put them at the tops of their lists. The truth of it all is, however, mature shade trees can get along fairly well with just occasional waterings. Usually, the irrigation you give your lawn and shrubs will be sufficient. The trees’ roots are in there competing.

In my landscape, my bigger concerns are for the small shrubs and groundcovers. Their roots are shallow, and the plants are likely to be the first to dry out when times turn tough. I think especially of Asian jasmine. It takes at least two, maybe three years to get a good bed established, and two or three days of excessively dry soils can spell its demise.

I worry, too, about my new shrubs. I’ve mentioned this recently but because of this dreadful weather I’m going to detail it again. Those new trees and shrubs were grown in lightweight potting soil to cut down on shipping costs. That was fine when we bought them, but it’s not so good now when they dry out daily. Soak them deeply and individually. Use a hoe to build shallow berms to retain the water around their root balls and put an amount of water equal to the pot size from which they were planted (5-gallon plants get 5 gallons of water, etc.).

Hollies are especially vulnerable. Because their leaves are leathery, the plants don’t really wilt. It’s sometimes difficult for gardeners to tell when plants are reaching the “permanent wilting point.” That’s the term that plant physiologists use to describe plants that are passing the point of no return. Hollies turn a drab olive green as that is happening. Veteran gardeners learn to recognize “the look” before it’s too late, but the safest way is simply to soak new plants often. You will not over-water them. Trust me.

The way around all of this is to water your plants by hand. You don’t have to put the sprinkler system through its entire run just because the edges of the beds are dry. You don’t have to water all of the shrubs if it’s only the new ones that are struggling. Use a water wand with a water bubbler or water breaker at the end so you can soak the plants that are suffering. You’ll be able to water them deeply and use the least amount of water possible in the process.

Do all of this early in the morning before it gets really hot or late in the evening after you get home from work. (Yes, I do care about you as well!) And while you’re running the hose, fill up a bowl for the birds somewhere in the shade and freshen it up daily. Give your pets a cool, shady spot and plenty of fresh water as well.

You can hear Neil Sperry on KLIF 570AM on Saturday afternoons 1-3 p.m. and on WBAP 820AM Sunday mornings 8-10 a.m. Join him at www.neilsperry.com and follow him on Facebook.