Add to Your Toolbox With One of These Expert-Approved Japanese Pull Saws

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Prized for their thin blades and precision cuts, Japanese pull saws have become a staple in many American workshops and toolboxes. As the name implies, pull saws do just that—they cut on the pull of a saw, rather than the push. If you examine the teeth of most Western hand saws, you’ll notice the teeth face away from the handle. The teeth on pull saws are reversed and point toward the handle.

Of course, there are Western pull saws as well. Coping saws, for example, have a thin blade stretched over a wide, U-shaped frame. They allow woodworkers to make intricate cuts in thin material. Gardening limb saws are designed to prune back small tree limbs, and typically either a pull-stroke or are bi-directional, allowing gravity to assist your stroke on the downward pull.

Other than their pull direction, Japanese hand saws typically have a long wooden handle and a particularly thin blade. The thin blade results in two other essential traits: a thin “kerf” or space that the saw blade takes out of the material, and the ability to bend the blade to sit flush to the cutting surface.

Quality saws that should appeal to most everyday woodworkers can be found in the $30 to $150 price range. That said, there are plenty of quality Japanese pull saws available for $50 or less, and our roundup focuses on saws within that budget. Try out one of the solid, middle of the road choices below, and see if you like it. You can always upgrade later.

Best Japanese Pull Saws

• Best Overall: Suizan Japanese Pull Saw Assembly Version

• Most Affordable: Ruitool Japanese Hand Saw

• Easiest to Use: Suizan Dozuki Japanese Pull Saw

• Best for Large Lumber/Deep Cuts: Kakuri Japanese Anahiki Saw

• Best for Mobility: ToughBuilt Cross-cutting Pull Saw

• Best for Beginners:IRWIN Marples Double-Edged 9.5-in Fine Finish Cut Pull Saw

What to Look For in a Japanese Pull Saw

There are many types of Japanese pull saws, to address all the many types of cuts woodworkers need to make. Style of Japanese saws commonly found in the US include:

Ryoba saws have a distinctive profile with a set of teeth on both edges of the blade. With no spine, the blade is particularly flexible, and the two sets of teeth on a Western-market Ryoba might be for ripping versus cross-cutting or for rougher versus finer cross-cuts.

Dozuki are single-sided saws with a reinforced spine, much like a Western tenon saw. This keeps the thin blade from bending during the cut. This type of saw is almost always intended for cross-cuts.

Kugihiki saws are often called “flush-cutting” because they are particularly flexible and have no set to their teeth. These single-sided saws can cut perfectly flush with the work material and leave little to no trace marks.

Anahiki saws are longer and beefier than the others recommended here. They’re typically used for long cuts or when cutting thicker dimensional material.

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When looking at a Japanese pull saw, there are a few key physical properties of importance.

Length

Pull saws are described in terms of blade length. There’s no right or wrong saw length; if you’re frequently working with smaller items, then a smaller blade is better.

Blade

The blade style matches up with the styles such as Ryoba or Dozuki.

Teeth

The more teeth per inch (tpi) the saw has, the slower it will cut, but the smoother the result. Teeth geometry also matters, and affects whether the blade is best suited for ripping or cross-cuts.

Handle

The handle length, material, and construction all factor into how comfortable the saw feels in the hand.

Best Suited For…

What kind of usage a specific saw is designed for or will work best for—it might be the type of wood or style of cut.

Feel

This one is personal, but it’s absolutely real. There is a genuine magic to using a well-made hand tool, and the saw that feels perfect in one worker’s hand may be awkward in another’s. Finding the right feel makes a difference and it is why so many of us end up trying different tools over the course of our careers.

How We Evaluated Japanese Pull Saws

Each saw that earned my recommendation was judged on criteria above. Since there’s such a range of blade types and sizes, I placed a priority on selecting saws suited for different tasks.

When picking your own saw, start by matching the blade type and length to your needs. For example, a rigid Dozuki blade is a smart choice for clean, even crosscuts, while a flexible Kugihiki is better for flush cuts. For many woodworkers, a blade in the 6- to 9-inch range will be a suitable choice, but if you’re working with larger material or ripping long boards, a longer blade may come in handy.

Additionally, in making my final selections,I focused on specific saws or styles with which I’ve had hands-on experience. When I didn’t have first-hand knowledge, I relied on a combination of reviews and recommendations from other woodworkers. There is one red flag when shopping for one of these saws. Be wary of any verbiage that leads you to believe using one of these tools is a shortcut for quality work. Ads for this type of saw may sometimes include stories about Japanese carpenters who create joints with such precision that no nails, screws, or glues are needed to hold them together. Shop carefully so that you end up with a credible product at a fair price.

In conclusion, if you do get one of these pull saws, and use it properly, you will find it to be another valuable tool in your arsenal. If you simply grab it and hack away, all you’ll end up with will be ungraceful, wandering cuts. Take the time to learn how to use it, and a quality Japanese pull saw will work wonders.

Japanese Pull Saw Assembly Version

This saw balances price and performance, making it a terrific all-around pick. The base model is $45, but the Assembly version comes with an almost 25-percent discount. Better yet, the “assembly” consists of a single screw. This Japanese-made saw has a rattan-wrapped handle and the versatile Ryoba design that provides both ripping and cross-cutting edges.

If you want an extra smooth finish, you might be better served with a higher tooth count or a flush-cutting Kugihiki blade. But if you're in search of an all-around useful pull saw, you won’t go wrong with this option.

Japanese Hand Saw

This is what I bought when I needed a particularly small pull saw blade to fit into a hard-to-reach space. It turned out that what could have been an hours-long effort, took just a few minutes of work.

This Ryoba style saw has a compact blade with good flex. The tooth set is a little aggressive, meaning that it left more marks when cutting flush than a Kugihiki would, but these marks sand off relatively easy from wood. I wouldn’t use this saw for precision joinery or when flush-cutting metal or plastic. But for the task I faced, it was the perfect saw for the job.

Keep in mind: It doesn’t have a replaceable blade, so when the blade dulls, it’s time to buy a new saw. But at this price, that’s not too much of a problem. While I found cheaper saws online, this is the lowest price saw I can recommend with first-hand experience.

Dozuki Japanese Pull Saw

A Dozuki saw has a back spine much like a Western tenon or backsaw. Its reinforced spine—which means there’s less flexibility —doesn’t afford the ability to get into tight spots. The advantage, however, is that it won’t wander as much during your cut, making it much easier to use for woodworkers who are accustomed to push-style saws.

The rattan-wrapped handle sits comfortably in your hand, and the cutting action is easier to adapt to than some other Japanese pull saws.

Japanese Anahiki Saw

If you’re crosscutting a large piece of lumber, then a small, flexible saw won’t be your first choice. An Anihiki style blade is perfect for cutting thicker material.

It trades the thin flexibility of the smaller saws included in this roundup for a beefier, stronger blade. The result is less wave on the cut. You’ll be able to put more power into each stroke while enjoying more stable cuts on larger pieces of wood.

Cross-cutting Pull Saw

Planning on packing your pull saw into a toolbox or bag? The exposed teeth can be a hinerance, especially on a double-edged Ryoba saw. It’s easy to damage/dull the saw teeth, or worse yet, cut yourself. This ToughBuilt model sidesteps that issue with a folding handle that covers both edges of the saw blade.

I’ve carried a custom modified mini-hacksaw in my tool bag for years. But I saw this model while doing my research for this article, and now I’m planning to buy one for myself.

9.5-Inch Marples Double-Edged Fine Finish Cut Pull Saw

I like this model for beginners because it’s a good introduction to the flexible blade, as well as the double-edged Ryoba style.

The build of this model is more solid that the Ruitool, mentioned above, but the price is low enough that if you try it out and don’t care for it, you won’t be kicking yourself for months. The two sides of the blade have 7 tpi and 17 tpi, giving a nice range of cutting styles.

FAQs With Our Expert, Dan Stout: More to Know About Handles, Blades, and Care of Japanese Pull Saws

Can you sharpen a Japanese pull saw?

Technically, yes. But you probably don’t want to. This type of saw is generally designed to either have the blade replaced, or for the entire saw to be disposed of when the teeth dull.

Is a Japanese saw better than a Western saw?

No. Individual saws might be better for specific applications, and you may personally prefer one type over another. I really comes down to what you're most comfortable with and the type of work you're doing.

Can you change a Japanese pull saw’s blade?

It depends on the saw. Higher grade saws typically have high-quality handles that are worth saving, and these can accept replacement blades. Less expensive models are designed to be disposed of when the teeth dull.

How do I take care of my saw to make it last?

Through proper use and storage. Proper use involves not trying to cut items the saw wasn’t intended for, and not using it as though it were a hammer or an axe.

Proper storage prevents damage to the teeth when not in use. This is a bigger issue if you store your saw in a toolbox or bag where the saw can rattle and rub against other tools. Some saws come with protector or sheath to cover the blade, or you can make one of your own.

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