Landlocked Baking Company, Chalet close as Small Victories Hospitality consolidates
After struggling to keep pace financially since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, Indianapolis-based Small Victories Hospitality closed its Landlocked Baking Company in Irvington and Chalet, a coffee and wine bar in Butler-Tarkington on Sunday.
The closings came as part of an effort by Small Victories to refocus efforts on its ramen bar Strange Bird in Irvington. In addition to closing the two properties, the restaurant group will hand over management of Coat Check Coffee downtown to the Athenaeum Foundation, while event organizer Tinker House will manage Near Northside coffee and cocktail lounge Provider.
In an Instagram post, Small Victories co-owner Neal Warner said the restaurant group did not receive financial aid from the Small Business Administration's Restaurant Revitalization Fund, which paid between $1,000 and $10 million to qualifying businesses starting March 2021. Many of the roughly 60% of qualifying restaurants that went without financial relief have been wrestling with debt ever since.
"I used to wake up focused on bringing a great product and experience to a community of likeminded friends and neighbors," Warner said in the Instagram post. "Now it feels like a win just to keep things in-stock and get everyone paid. You’ve heard it all before, but small businesses, particularly in hospitality, are like economic punching bags."
Chalet opened at 5555 N. Illinois St. in 2022, offering a cozy Alpine ski lodge atmosphere with hot drinks, wine and a food menu heavy on pork and strong cheese. Landlocked launched in fall 2020 at 120 S. Audubon Road on the same block as Strange Bird, quickly becoming a favorite among brunch and coffee enthusiasts.
But since the pandemic, Warner said, running five venues simultaneously became financially unfeasible.
Those lamenting the loss of Landlocked span from everyday customers to prominent names in Indy's dining scene. Kan-Kan Cinema and Brasserie executive chef Michael Conley expressed frustration at the lack of monetary support the bakery received during the pandemic.
"It kinda makes me feel sad because there's no real reason for it to happen," he said. "I would wish that everyone wants to take care of everyone else. But sometimes it doesn't happen, so you have to close your doors if no one's coming."
Bluebeard pastry chef Youssef Boudarine called Landlocked's situation "messed up" given the SBA's unequal, seemingly arbitrary distribution of funds; other Indianapolis eateries, including chains World of Beer (which closed its Indianapolis location late last year) and MCL Bakery received hundreds of thousands of dollars. Boudarine said many of the restaurants that received aid needed it, but that many deserving small businesses were left out.
"Opening in a small neighborhood like Irvington and working with the community, I was sad for (Landlocked) to close," he said. "We need more community businesses than corporate businesses in Indiana."
In a Facebook post, Warner said he has received multiple inquiries about purchasing Chalet, so the café and wine bar may get a second chance under different ownership. Bluebeard executive chef Alan Sternberg is optimistic the void left by Landlocked won't be empty for long, though he acknowledged every closing comes with its fair share of heartache.
"If there's enough demand for it, someone will step up and fill that space for the community," he said. "It's just sad to see people lose jobs. Good people find jobs, so they'll be OK in the end, but for now I'm sure it's emotionally overwhelming for them."
Contact dining reporter Bradley Hohulin at bhohulin@indystar.com. You can follow him on Twitter/X @BradleyHohulin.
This article originally appeared on Indianapolis Star: Landlocked Baking, Chalet close as parent company consolidates
