The history of the Wisconsin State Fair cream puff

The sun beams down. The sweat beads form. The deep-fryers sizzle. It’s August at the Wisconsin State Fair grounds.

Step inside the Cream Puff Pavilion and feel the heavenly blast of cold air. Walk down the assembly line and watch the workers make magic out of milk, eggs and butter.

Clad in cow-print hats, the bakers slice open the golden brown pastry shells, squirt on heaps of fresh cream, sandwich the halves together and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

With roots dating to 16th-century France, cream puffs were advertised on Milwaukee restaurant menus as early as 1868. But they didn’t flourish until decades later, when then-Gov. John Blaine wanted a food showcasing the state’s dairy industry to be sold at the 1924 State Fair. Charles Kremer came up with the cream puff, using a recipe from the south side bakery his family owned.

The cream puff craze grew during World War II when whipping cream was in short supply.

Nowadays, the Wisconsin Bakers Association churns out hundreds of thousands of puffs in a bakery that doesn’t stop running until the 11-day event concludes.

The cashier passes the puff on a paper plate. It’s lightweight, like a cloud. Grab some napkins. It’s going to be messy.

Don’t worry about the calories. You’ll burn them off on the long walk back to your car.

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This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: The history of the Wisconsin State Fair cream puff