A guide to eating across South Carolina: These are go-to restaurants in all 46 counties

Editor’s note: Traveling for the Easter holiday or spring break? Below is a excerpt from a story published earlier this year in The Food Section listing a “go-to” restaurant in each county.

As the original story says, “This list shouldn’t be mistaken for a list of South Carolina’s best restaurants. There are plenty of places statewide which are more creative, more revealing, and more memorable. But when an exhausted traveler needs a grilled cheese sandwich and a wi-fi signal at 9:30 p.m., it doesn’t help her to know about the whole hog barbecue joint that’s open for two hours on Saturdays during deer season.” Read on.

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These are the go-to restaurants, open more often than not — or at least more often than most other restaurants in the same county. In keeping with their go-to status, these are restaurants with indoor seating; tables available without reservation; beer-and-wine licenses, community sentiment permitting; long histories, and lengthy menus that usually include at least one vegetarian option (so long as you count grilled cheese.) Many of them serve burgers. A startling number of them offer karaoke.

This catalog is like the Interstate 95 guide in that every restaurant listed is locally owned. (There are several instances in which the spotlighted restaurant has multiple locations, but that’s what happens when a restaurant’s known for being reliable.)

But the reporting process for this project was different: Whereas I checked out every restaurant within 3 miles of each highway exit, I didn’t attempt to visit all 10,705 restaurants in the state. These recommendations are instead based on my 10-plus years of living, working, and traveling here.

Welcome to South Carolina!

ABBEVILLE COUNTY

The Rough House

Opened during Herbert Hoover’s presidency, The Rough House has never shed the frugality which saw this cotton mill town institution through the Depression: It still sells hot dogs by the sack at its Formica-topped counter, and its owners pride themselves on letting the wall paint peel. But the creaky wooden floors provide the ideal melodious accompaniment to a cupful of mustardy hash and skinny chili dog in a steamed bun. 116 Court Square, Abbeville, (864) 366-1932, facebook.com/theroughhouse

AIKEN COUNTY

Neon Fig

Although it’s located in downtown Aiken, Neon Fig has a smattering of the Euro-posh feel that’s a specialty of upscale restaurants at tropical resorts. It’s discernable in the breezily bright décor, and the safely mischievous small plates, such as croissant beignets and fries dusted with furikake. Also reminiscent of resort dining: The professional service, no doubt nurtured by owners Marvin Sterling III and Cecelia Roust, formerly hospitality executives in Savannah. 110 Park Ave. SW, Aiken, (803) 226-0424, neon-fig.com

ALLENDALE COUNTY

Red Crow Dining

One of the few restaurants in this roundup without indoor seating (but not the only one located in an erstwhile drive-thru bank), the indigenous-owned Red Crow makes easy work of the challenging question: Would you rather have a chair or a wedge of fried whiting? At Red Crow, which also serves sandwiches and seafood boils, the meticulously handled fish tastes as though it’s taken up residence in a hush puppy. 414 Main St. South, Allendale, (803) 812-0010, facebook.com/redcrowdining

ANDERSON COUNTY

Taqueria El Guiri-Guiri

Pozole, tamales, and coctel de camarones could represent a shift away from a couple of centuries of cooking in this foothills county, yet it’s clear from every taco plate that El Guiri-Guiri’s exceptional output is a continuation of local traditions. The women who run the tiny restaurant channel the area’s longstanding reverence for corn and beans into homemade tortillas and pork-indebted pintos which flatter rich brisket, beef cheek, and tongue. 114 Fredericks St., Anderson, (864) 328-3628

BAMBERG COUNTY

Little Howie’s

Around Bamberg County, Little Howie’s fryer and the cooks who operate it are so respected that Thanksgiving hosts entrust the quick-service restaurant with their holiday turkeys. But should you reach the walk-up window without a thawed bird, a few bucks will buy you two pieces of crisp fried chicken, a dinner roll, and your choice of 25 sides, including spicy rice, limas, and pizza sticks. Don’t forget the sweet tea. 2234 Main Hwy., Bamberg, (803) 245-4573, littlehowies.com

BARNWELL COUNTY

Miller’s Bread Basket

There’s something mullet-esque about Miller’s, which comprises a Mennonite bakery up front, and a meat-and-three in the back. Ray and Susie Miller, who opened the restaurant in 1987, moved down from the Midwest in the 1960s: Their heritage is evident in the sturdy Cheddar bread, and celebrated shoofly pie. Still, it’s hard to believe Indianans are responsible for the point-and-get buffet, furnished with fried pork chops, black-eyed peas, and simmered turnip greens. 483 Main St., Blackville, (803) 284-3117, millersbreadbasket.com

Old Bull Tavern
Old Bull Tavern

BEAUFORT COUNTY

Old Bull Tavern

Presumably, Old Bull Tavern isn’t underwritten by the local tourism board, but a vast number of visitors to this dimly-lit, warmly-welcoming pub must leave thinking about relocation. Founded in 2011 by a refugee of Charleston’s sometimes painfully buzzy restaurant scene, the unassuming Old Bull is beloved for its skillful bartending and smart takes on iconic local dishes, such as wasabi-tinted deviled eggs and spicy Country Captain, draped over rice. 205 West St., Beaufort, (843) 379-2855, oldbulltavern.com

BERKELEY COUNTY

Mac Daddy’s

Compared to the fish camps that flourished on the banks of the Catawba River, the all-day dining halls that opened in connection with bait shops and rental cabins along the Santee Cooper lakes were always more modest. But Mac Daddy’s still excels at plying anglers with hearty breakfast plates, and simmering paradigmatic catfish stew, a dense mass of broken-down catfish belly and mild potatoes, reddened and sweetened by ketchup. 139 Canal Landing Road, Cross, (843) 753-2270, canallakesfishcamp.com

CALHOUN COUNTY

Bleu Market Café

At so many restaurants, a menu brimming with workaday staples such as chicken wings, bologna sandwiches, and fried catfish nuggets doesn’t leave room for fun. That’s not the situation at Bleu Market, which Novia Gardner opened after moving back home during the pandemic and noticing her community’s need for a gathering place. In addition to serving estimable chicken and fish, Gardner pours moscato in four flavors, and mixes SoCo cocktails. 312 Boyce Lawton Dr., Cameron, (803) 823-9041, bleumarketcafe.com

CHARLESTON COUNTY

Home Team BBQ

The next time someone is raving your ear off about the glories of Charleston’s restaurant scene, ask if they’ve ever been hungry on King Street at 11:15 p.m. Charleston’s late-night options are few, which is one reason why eaters here patronize Waffle House as avidly as their peers in cities ignored by glossy magazines. An exception is the consistently excellent Home Team, among the first places in town to apply a classically trained sensibility to smoked meat. Multiple locations, hometeambbq.com

CHEROKEE COUNTY

Smak Deli Café

When I last lunched at Smak, I saw on Instagram that fellow food writer John Kessler was eating restaurant cabbage rolls too. “Yours looks better,” he responded when I texted a picture of my meal. Important context here: Kessler lives in Chicago, home to one of the biggest Polish populations outside of Europe. Still, my heart belongs to Smak’s outstanding borscht: Each spoonful is like a face-plant in freshly tilled earth. 139 Lemmons Lane, Gaffney, (864) 480-9082, smak-deli.business.site

CHESTER COUNTY

The Front Porch

Joe Saye Gaston Sr., who opened The Front Porch in 1984, passed away on Dec. 23, 2023, at the age of 91. “Rest assured,” the restaurant soothed its followers. “Angie has all of his recipes and has perfected them to his approval.” That means the chicken-and-dumplings will still resonate, the collards will still charm, and it will still be worth ordering a slice of chess pie for dessert. 3072 Lancaster Hwy., Richburg, (803) 789-5029, frontporchhomecooking.net

CHESTERFIELD COUNTY

Mickey’s

As I wrote in 2017, everyone in Pageland knows the “fried chicken” sign affixed to the stocky, single-windowed brick building that houses Mickey’s means “Lucille Cato’s famous fried chicken.” Cato, who died in 2003, brought her recipe to Mickey’s after shutting down Cato’s Restaurant and Drive-In. Now Mickey’s serves two kinds of fried chicken: Dry flour and Lucille Cato’s wet-battered, preternaturally flaky and sweet. Imagine fried chicken disguised as dessert. 114 N. Maple St., Pageland, (843) 672-7757

CLARENDON COUNTY

D&H Bar B Que

In this topsy-turvy barbecue world, where people spoon sauce over rice and call it hash, Henry Brailsford’s restaurant upholds traditions that long predate its 1947 opening. The orange-hued hash on its ample buffet isn’t overwhelmed by non-liver filler, although the star offal’s smoothed over by ketchup and chopped shoulder. (For folks who want nothing to do with liver, however terrific, D&H also serves fried chicken, catfish stew, and homemade mac-and-cheese.) 412 S. Mill St., Manning, (803) 433-2189, facebook.com/dandhbarbquemanning

COLLETON COUNTY

Carmine’s Trattoria

Carmine’s is locally renowned for its capable renditions of Italian-American classics, such as fried calamari and meaty Bolognese, and selection of big red wines to go along with them. But neither food nor drink propelled the intimate dining room’s latest popularity surge. Carmine’s, which gets its passably big-city energy from owner Giuseppe Vitale and the Northeast transplants who adore him, was the reservation to score during the Alex Murdaugh trial. 242 E. Washington St., Walterboro, (843) 782-3248

Yogi Bear’s Honey Fried Chicken
Yogi Bear’s Honey Fried Chicken

DARLINGTON COUNTY

Yogi Bear’s Honey Fried Chicken

I once talked with the man who in the late 1960s came up with the Yogi Bear Fried Chicken chain; he was looking for a celebrity to help sell his honey-flavored chicken additive, and Jackie Gleason had turned him down. “It took off like you would not believe,” Roy Davis said of the cartoon-led brand. There were half a dozen Yogi Bears in the Carolinas when Hardee’s bought its tenderizing technology. Now, there’s just one, and “people still rant and rave about it: They say no matter where you go, you can’t get no better.” Correct. 514 S. 5th St., Hartsville, (843) 332-7031, yogifriedchicken.com

DILLON COUNTY

Pho Hong Saigon

Speaking of the Interstate 95 guide, Pho Hong Saigon is the only restaurant to appear on both that list and this one, since you don’t need to have spent the day on the road to appreciate the crusty baguettes and snappy fresh herbs and vegetables that distinguish this impressive café’s teeming bánh mìs. If you have time to linger, though, that’s your entrée to the meaty namesake broth. 207 Radford Blvd., Dillon, (843) 506-8641, facebook.com/PhoHongSaigon

DORCHESTER COUNTY

Low Country Fish Camp

When I covered the Charleston food scene, newspaper readers complained I didn’t write enough about Summerville, a bedroom community known primarily for hosting the second locations of restaurants that had succeeded downtown. In response, I moved there—meaning I stayed in a Dorchester County short-term rental for two days. Low Country Fish Camp was a standout of my immersive eating tour, thanks to its friendly service and fried fish plates. 903 Central Ave., Summerville, (843) 285-8558, lowcountryfishcamp.com

EDGEFIELD COUNTY

Edgefield Pool Room

“Pool Room” has become a close-to-questionable claim at this circa 1961 institution in Strom Thurmond’s hometown. Nowadays, the lights are bright, and there’s only one table available for folks toting cues. But its “best burger in the South” assertion has merit in the form of a drippy, peppery patty, constructed from quality beef. (Note: Owner Scott Mims on January 19 announced the restaurant is temporarily closed for emergency renovations. The pool table is for sale.) 125 Courthouse Square, Edgefield, (803) 637-9941, edgefieldpoolroom.com

FAIRFIELD COUNTY

Italian Garden

In the context of Italian-American cooking, “grandma” is typically shorthand for vine-ripened tomatoes and slow-simmered sauces. Italian Garden evokes another, more common, kind of grandmother, who used vinyl tablecloths and pre-grated, processed cheese. From the thin-crust pizza to the oversized wall poster celebrating Winnsboro’s “historic town clock,” it’s enormously endearing, and absurdly affordable. A dozen lunch entrees, including baked ziti and eggplant parmigiana, are priced at $8.50 apiece. 21980 US-321, Winnsboro, (803) 815-5151, facebook.com/ItalianGarden/

FLORENCE COUNTY

Tubb’s Shrimp & Fish Co.

It’s a testament to the greatness of Tubb’s that non-Florentines visit the city expecting to be wowed by Buc-ee’s, and end up posting online raves for the casual restaurant’s hush puppies and collard greens. While there’s no reason to doubt the sincerity of she-crab partisans and flounder fans, shrimp is in the business’ name for a reason: Firmly encased in a greaseless crust, Tubb’s shrimp are brawny and sweet. 1500 2nd Loop Road, Florence, (843) 799-5579, tubbsseafood.com

GEORGETOWN COUNTY

Between the Antlers

In much the way that folk musicians sing about changing the world, while pop music gets the job done, Between the Antlers is so much fun that customers likely never notice they’re taking a crash course in Lowcountry foodways. The curriculum at this new entry in the Georgetown revitalization effort includes robust perloo fritters, nestled in collards wet with potlikker; local shrimp salad, and fried quail sauced with country ham gravy. Of course, cocktails are stiff and expertly mixed. (Note: Between the Antlers’ founder, Tom Hall, died in a car crash on Jan. 20) 100 Wood St., Georgetown, (843) 833-8989, betweentheantlers.com

GREENVILLE COUNTY

Fork and Plough

Chef Shawn Kelly and famer Roddy Pick, founders of Fork and Plough, like to talk about the provenance of the ingredients used in their hybrid restaurant-and-retail market. In terms of South Carolina’s food scene, though, their provenance is equally important: Kelly learned to cook under the tutelage of the great Frank Lee at SNOB in Charleston. His influence shines through Fork and Plough’s esteemed vegetable plate, squiggled with paprika aioli. 1629 E. North St., Greenville, (864) 609-4249, forkandplough.com

GREENWOOD COUNTY

McCutcheon’s Cheeseburger House

When I once made the mistake of Instagramming from Greenwood’s Dixie Drive-In, Greenwood native and Life Raft Treats co-founder John David Harmon immediately corrected me: “Try Cheeseburger House.” Since burgers are to Greenwoodites what high school football is to Texans—the S.C. General Assembly resolution lamenting Ernest McCutcheon’s death recognized three other burger joint owners in his immediate family—I followed his advice to the salty, sloppy burger that’s captivated the county since 1961. 512 Ninety Six Hwy., Greenwood, (864) 227-2721, facebook.com/burgerlovegreenwood

Low Country Seafood
Low Country Seafood

HAMPTON COUNTY

Low Country Seafood

Deviled crab probably ought to be the emblem of Low Country Seafood, a workaday family restaurant hard by Highway 278. The puffed-up zeppelins aren’t quite the equal of what’s served closer to the coast, but like much of what’s on Low Country’s extensive menu, they’re portioned generously and notably sweet, with bits of celery outstripping crab in the stuffing. 204 E. Carolina Ave., Varnville, (803) 943-0170

HORRY COUNTY

Omega Pancake House

The Grand Strand has more restaurants per capita than Paris or Rome, a statistic that’s partly attributable to pancake houses. I’ve eaten in them all, and none are better than Omega, source of what I’ve described as “mildly sweet, bronzed pancakes that are a model of pancake construction, with gently crisped bottom edges, and just as much lift as nature allows.” Plus, they’re served with real butter and maple syrup by the loveliest employees. 1617 US-17 Business, Surfside Beach, (843) 238-5292, omegasurfside.com

Burrito Express
Burrito Express

JASPER COUNTY

Burrito Express

Secreted within a gas station, which shares an interior wall with a golf ball store, Burrito Express is the restaurant equivalent of an ambiguous illusion. Some Interstate 95 travelers will only see the cheese steaks and crunchy tacos on the menu board, and shredded Cheddar cheese, black olives, and sliced mushrooms on the Subway-style garnish line. Others will notice the listings for tortas, sopes, and tamales, as well as pickled jalapenos, nopalitos, and limes, and eat very well indeed. 130 Independence Blvd., Hardeeville, (843) 784-2187, facebook.com/BurritoExpress2018

KERSHAW COUNTY

Sam Kendall’s

Sam Kendall’s is the quintessential nice restaurant for diners who don’t brook surprises. The salmon is sauced with lemon butter, the pasta comes with garlic bread, and asparagus is available for steak pairing purposes throughout the year. But the place has cultivated a devoted following by going extra miles in an approved-upon direction: The homemade tomato bisque, for example, is studded with gobs of lump blue crab. 1043 Broad St., Camden, (803) 424-2005, samkendalls.com

LANCASTER COUNTY

The Wagon Wheel Restaurant

I first visited Wagon Wheel on a fried chicken assignment, much to the dismay of owner Bill Nixon, who wanted to make certain I’d tried his locally-grown squash. The squash at this casual steakhouse, widely hailed for its extensive salad bar, is “out of this world,” in Nixon’s opinion. It’s seasoned and breaded and fried, like the severely underrated chicken, which is salty within and peppery without. 5724 Lancaster Hwy., Fort Lawn, (803) 872-4654, wagonwheel1.com

LAURENS COUNTY

Whiteford’s Giant Burger

Name and enormous neon sign aside, Whiteford’s has always been known as an A.M. destination. On the counter-service restaurant’s silver anniversary in 2007, Ray Whiteford told a local reporter that was by design: A friend in Massachusetts advised him to “find some allies in law enforcement.” His Southern interpretation involved giving fatback and hot biscuits to cops for free. Before long, “when people would ask where to get breakfast, the [officers] would bring them right to our door.” 212 Hillcrest Dr., Laurens, (864) 984-7512

LEE COUNTY

Raley’s Lunch

Confession: I’m fascinated by Bishopville, which in 1988 made national headlines when The Lizard Man emerged from Scape Or Swamp. I like the South Carolina Cotton Museum, where the Man’s alleged footprint casings are strewn with butterbeans. I like the library, and I love Raley’s Lunch, a tumbledown side street sandwich counter that’s been run by the same family since 1946. It serves a burger that’s tender and timeless, and sold only for cash. 127 W. Council St., Bishopville, (803) 484-6848

Bodhi Thai Dining
Bodhi Thai Dining

LEXINGTON COUNTY

Bodhi Thai Dining

“Do you have a reservation?” a hostess asked sternly when I went to Bodhi for lunch. The handsome dining room was empty, but my friend had booked a table, as the restaurant’s website recommends. Apparently, chef Nivit Tipvaree likes for his guests to be as refined as his dishes, including beautifully balanced soups, and gently grilled gai yang, or skewered chicken, basted with citrus and fish sauce. 126 E. Main St., Lexington, (803) 957-1994, bodhithaidining.com

Leo’s Pizza
Leo’s Pizza

MARION COUNTY

Leo’s Pizza

There are so many extras on and around the dining patio at Leo’s that it can seem like the whole purpose of the year-old business is to support couch-lounging, cornhole-tossing, and live music-listening. In fact, those activities just help patrons bide the time that Leo’s takes with each pie. (As for its mission, owner Chelsey Gasque wanted to offer items that weren’t available elsewhere in Marion, such as craft beer and pesto sauce.) 508 Tom Gasque Ave., Marion, (843) 765-3454

MARLBORO COUNTY

The Dairy Dream

Just about everything has changed at The Dairy Dream since it opened in the 1960s as a Dairy Queen, save for part of its name. The local favorite has relocated, swapped its drive-in window for an indoor dining room, and adjusted its menu to reflect the culinary heritage of owner Daniel Bakogiannis, whose Greek immigrant parents bought the restaurant in 1982. But alongside grilled chicken pitas and baklava, it still serves thick chocolate milkshakes and broad onion rings. 400 Cheraw St., Bennettsville, (843) 479-9432, facebook.com/thedairydream

MCCORMICK COUNTY

McCormick Drive Inn

The boxy, near-windowless brick building that houses McCormick Drive Inn is hard for even experienced restaurant goers to read. It’s not clear from the outside what the place might serve, and there are no signs or lights to indicate whether it’s open or closed. Yet intrepid eaters who press ahead will be rewarded with one of the state’s great chicken dinners, fried to order and seasoned to the bone. 117 Virginia St., McCormick, (864) 852-2717

NEWBERRY COUNTY

Bill & Fran’s

If you reverse engineered a Perkins Restaurant or IHOP to uncover its inspiration, you’d no doubt land on something like the ever-wonderful Bill & Fran’s, which since 1976 has served up warm service and honest food: Think Salisbury steak, grape salad, and orange pineapple cake. Its line cooks make brilliant burgers habitually, and hamburger soup when the weather turns frosty. Located halfway up the interstate climb from Charleston to Asheville, Bill & Fran’s is peak by every other measure. 11724SC-34, Newberry, (803) 276-6888, billandfrans.com

OCONEE COUNTY

Yousef’s Kitchen

Sometimes, you’ll see a customer in camo tucking into chicken tenders beneath a gridded poster illustrating the “Old City Streets of Jerusalem.” That scene encapsulates the late Yousef A. Mefleh’s restaurant, which melds old-world hospitality with Mefleh’s wholehearted embrace of his chosen community and culture. Since opening as a one-man operation in 1985, Mefleh became known as the kindest guy in the county. “This is probably one of the most devastating losses our city will ever see,” the mayor said following Mefleh’s fatal cardiac event in 2022. 1109 E. Main St., Westminster, (864) 647-6947, facebook.com/yousefskitchen

ORANGEBURG COUNTY

House of Pizza on Sims

There are two houses of pizza in Orangeburg, but those in the know swear by the community hangout on Sims Street. Pizza gets headline billing, but the roomy restaurant serves an array of dishes of Greek-leaning dishes that go to show what magic still lurks in the alchemy of oregano and a hot grill. The working crowd at lunch favors sandwiches, but platters include souvlaki and shish kebab. 1375 Sims St., Orangeburg, (803) 534-7500, houseofpizzaonsims.com

PICKENS COUNTY

The Mexican at Central

Officially, this high-spirited restaurant is titled “The Mexican at Central Gastro,” which hints at the newish place’s ambitions. Confirmation that it’s succeeding in its aims is palpable in drinks mixed with just-squeezed fruit juice, handmade tortillas, and fresh salsas. Notably, The Mexican also makes its own pastries, including flan, tres leches cake, and Carlota, which Rick Bayless has described as “the Latin American equivalent of banana pudding.” 217 W. Main St., Central, (864) 952-5008, facebook.com/themexicanatcentral

Persis Biryani Indian Grill
Persis Biryani Indian Grill

RICHLAND COUNTY

Persis Biryani Indian Grill

Lots of places hoist the Persis banner, but consensus in South Carolina’s expat community holds that this is the best Indian restaurant statewide. Gaurav Samant—who was won over by fragrant Hyderabadi biryani glistening with ghee, a plush scrambled egg curry, and a paneer masala in which the complexities weren’t painted over with cream—took his parents there when they visited from India, undeterred by their skepticism. They loved it. 1728 Bush River Road, Columbia, (803) 851-3687, persiscolumbia.com

SALUDA COUNTY

Rikard’s Roadside Barbecue

Just down the block from Juniper, a limited-hours café that’s earned national acclaim for dishes including corn chowder that could sway a farmer into planting more acreage, is Rikard’s. The family-owned restaurant makes a fine washpot hash, and the kitchen has a knack for frying, exercised on pickles, pork skin, okra, and chicken. Byron Rikard sometimes smokes brisket, but one of the state’s leading barbecue bloggers maintains the pork “epitomizes old-school, authentic South Carolina barbecue.” 905 W. Main St., Ridge Spring, (803) 685-2211, rikardsroadsidebbq.com

SPARTANBURG COUNTY

The Kennedy

On a recent evening at The Kennedy, two young parents who’d snuck out for a date asked the bartender for ranch with their housemade potato chips. He thought for a moment, and then offered them roasted garlic aioli instead. The Kennedy is fancy like that, but in a lively way that approaches what the kids left at home probably envision as adulthood, down to the art deco décor, stylish cocktails, and steak frites, no ranch. 221 E. Kennedy St., Spartanburg, (864) 586-5554, thekennedysc.com

SUMTER COUNTY

Hamptons

As I wrote when I reviewed Hamptons (prompted by a Nikki Haley initiative, as it happens), “By hiring chef Raffaele Dall’Erta, [owners Greg and Danielle] Thompson have stretched out the local dining spectrum so the prospect of gnudi and a negroni now sits at one end. Dall’Erta has had to make some menu concessions to the Sumter audience, such as serving pizza at night, but nothing I ordered tasted like compromise.” Specifically: Get the gumbo. 33 N. Main St., Sumter, (803) 774-4400, hamptonsfoods.com

UNION COUNTY

Fat Sam’s

The kind of place where regulars get their photos on the wood paneled wall after they pass, Fat Sam’s is virtuosic at breakfast time. Its kitchen will put just about anything on a biscuit, but grits are the better grain choice here, simmered slowly and buttered heavily. According to one of the commemorative portrait plaques, Leon Lancaster took his with “more hot sauce.” 314 Old Buffalo Road, Union, (864) 426-0814, fatsams.net

WILLIAMSBURG COUNTY

The Corner Crossroads

Alphabetically, this is nearly my last chance to point you toward a backroads vestige of older ways of eating, such as a meaty chili dog handed over a country store counter. The Corner Crossroads excels in the hot dog department (a category which here includes a dollop of sharp chow chow relish), but also serves more elaborate plates on occasion, such as chicken spaghetti, perloo, and hoppin’ John on New Year’s Day. 3695 Sumter Hwy., Kingstree, (843) 382-8201, facebook.com/thecornercrossroads

YORK COUNTY

Inizio Pizza Napolenta

Twice, I’ve ended up at Inizio when other places didn’t pan out. Next time, I’ll head there first. As I learned when I toured one of the Charlotte area chain’s four restaurants while reporting on the Fast Casual Executive Summit, its owner is remarkably serious about wood-fired ovens, quality mozzarella, double zero flour, and seasonal toppings, such as figs in the summer and pumpkin cream in the fall. 816 Brayden Pkwy., Fort Mill, (803) 670-4004, iniziopizza.com

This story first appeared in The Food Section, a Charleston-based newsletter covering food and drink across the American South. To learn more about the James Beard Award-winning publication, visit thefoodsection.com.

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