Ever heard of omakase? This Beechmont spot is the only place to get it in town — and it can't be missed

When I first moved to Louisville eight years ago, I steered clear of any restaurant that served seafood.Having grown up in Hawaii, I knew there was no way any eatery around Derby City had access to the fresh fish I was accustomed to eating, often coming straight from my dad's spear or fishing line and into our kitchen.

I’ve since learned that while fish served here can’t possibly be that fresh, it can come pretty darn close.

Louisville’s newest sushi spot, Anko Sushi, is proof. Owner Ahn Le orders fish, sea urchin, octopus, and other ocean fare from a famous fish market in Japan. Here are five things you should know about this sushi restaurant in the Beechmont food hall, The StrEatery.

Ankso Sushi owner Ahn Le trained with this popular Louisville sushi chef

Before becoming a business owner and opening Anko Sushi this past January, Le spent 10 years as the general manager and sushi chef at Hiko-A-Mon in Westport Village. Under the tutelage of owner and chef Hiko Nakanishi, Le learned what he describes as “old school” sushi-making techniques.

“I was luckily trained by Hiko-san,” he said. “He’s the only Japanese sushi chef here in Louisville.”

For the last five years of his decade-long stint at Hiko-A-Mon, Le dreamed of owning his own eatery.

“The journey of opening this place was really up and down,” he recalled, “because I have no experience with business.”

While struggling to secure a lease, his friend Dung Tran — who owns The StrEatery — suggested he take over a space in the food hall.

“I thought, ‘why not?’" Le said. “I’ve been living in this area since I came to America 15 years ago, and there (are no) good Japanese restaurants here in Beechmont. … Everybody has to travel far away.”

Order the popular Muhammad Ali signature roll at Anko Sushi

The Anko Sushi menu boasts a variety of items, including starters like miso soup and seaweed salad; sashimi (thinly sliced, raw seafood); poke bowls; and more than three dozen rolls.

Roll options consist of well-known classics like the California Roll and the Crunch Munch Roll, which features spicy crab, cooked shrimp, crunch, and spicy mayo; as well as 15 one-of-a-kind signature rolls Le has created.

“I just make whatever I want to eat and put it on the menu,” he said with a laugh.

One of his signature creations — the Muhammad Ali — has been especially popular. The oft-ordered roll includes spicy crab, cucumber, and avocado, and is topped with seared steak, fried shallots, spicy mayo, and eel sauce.

For anyone new to sushi, Le suggests starting with the salmon carpaccio.

“When you first start eating sushi, I (always) recommend … salmon,” he said, adding that his carpaccio features slices of salmon with salt, pepper, and olive juice, and is topped with a yuzu dressing. “It’s really refreshing (and) light.”

Sample the sashimi and try the weekly Wednesday special

In addition to the items on the regular menu, Le offers omakase sashimi daily.

Omakase, a Japanese phrase that means “I’ll leave it up to you,” is a dining experience that eliminates a guest’s need to choose a dish. It keeps the chef in control and offers customers an adventurous way to experience a meal left in the hands of a pro.

Le also creates a weekly kitchen special every Wednesday.

“Wednesday is my slow day, so I have time to prep,” he explained.

These rotating offerings vary widely and include everything from beef udon and tonkotsu ramen to an oyakodon (chicken and egg rice bowl) and chicken karaage combo.

Don't miss omakase Tuesdays

While Le's other weekly specials provide unique ways for guests to experience his culinary creations, omakase Tuesdays are where Anko Sushi — and Le's passion — truly shine.

“We get our fish from the auction in Toyosu Fish Market in Japan,” he said. “It’s the biggest fish market there. This is the same fish vendor (that supplies) Nobu (restaurants) in Philadelphia and California.”

One omakase Tuesday offering included Shirauo, a Japanese ice fish only available in the spring. Le served it with lightly torched, Japanese A5 wagyu beef topped with uni (sea urchin) and caviar.

“(I serve) different kinds of fish with different toppings,” he exclaimed. “I like to test my customers’ curiosity and courage.”

He adds that another omakase Tuesday dish he created was a tea-brewed octopus, an unusual option that guests were happy to try.

“It’s kind of strange, but people loved it,” Le said. “People come here to try (new things).”

Anko Sushi owner already has plans to expand

“When I opened Anko, I (didn’t) want it to be just another Japanese restaurant in Louisville,” Le said. “I wanted to do something that Louisville doesn’t have, which is omakase.”

He adds that there’s more to sushi than tuna, salmon, and yellowtail — and he wants to help people understand this by offering new and interesting ways to try different dishes.

“Sushi is more than just a roll with sauce,” he said. “It’s about the (fresh) fish, the consistency of the rice, and the amount of rice.”

Anko Sushi is essentially a one-man operation. His only employees are a couple of part-time cashiers who work nights. He says he might hire additional help later this year, but ultimately, his goal is to open a standalone omakase-style sushi bar.

“I want to bring big city sushi style to Louisville, Kentucky,” he said, “so that’s my next concept.”

Know a restaurant that would make a great feature? Email writer Lennie Omalza at aloha@lennieomalza.com or Lifestyle Editor Kathryn Gregory at kgregory@gannett.com.

Anko Sushi

WHAT: This locally-owned sushi spot serves fresh sushi, sashimi, and more. It is located in the Beechmont food hall, The StrEatery.

WHERE: 304 W Woodlawn Ave., inside The StrEatery.

SERVICES: Dine-in and carryout; 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Friday; 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday

CONTACT: 502-292-7175, instagram.com/anko.sushi.louisville/

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This article originally appeared on Louisville Courier Journal: Anko Sushi in south Louisville serves omakase, authentic dishes