Even after megafire, North Umpqua Canyon’s waterfalls offer unmatched beauty in winter

The North Umpqua Canyon in winter has been one of my favorite places to visit for more than a decade, but I had not returned since one of the worst wildfire disasters in state history.

The 131,419-acre Archie Creek Fire burned at the highest severity of all the 2020 Labor Day fires, killing much or most of the trees across a whopping 100,000 acres of the fire’s footprint.

Even though I’ve explored and written about countless wildfire scars — and how they showcase forest rebirth — I was weary of returning to the waterfall trails that were such a joy to explore when I was a young reporter working in southern Oregon.

Turns out, such concern was misplaced.

Yes, some of my favorite waterfall hikes were roasted, but many weren’t, and the combination of burned and unburned waterfall hikes offers a fascinating contrast east of Roseburg along Oregon Highway 138.

It was pleasant to hike Susan Creek Falls Trail on a winter day and, amid burned forest, feel the sunlight streaming down and warming the pathway. The burned forest also opened up interesting new views of Fall Creek Falls, allowing you to see its 100-foot double-tier in a way that wasn’t possible under its previous rainforest canopy.

The Umpqua’s two most famous waterfalls weren’t burned. The forest of Watson and Toketee falls remain just as lush and verdant as ever, concealing what could easily be considered Oregon’s most scenic waterfalls.

It’s funny, for years I referred to the North Umpqua as southern Oregon’s answer to the Columbia River Gorge. Both have numerous waterfall hikes right off the highway, after all. Now, another similarity: Both are excellent spots to see waterfalls burned and undisturbed by the last decade’s rise of wildfires.

Where to stay on a visit to the North Umpqua Canyon in winter?

There are a few places to spend a night in the North Umpqua Canyon, but the place I stayed this past visit was Umpqua’s Last Resort. It’s a private campground with RV sites and small cabins that start between $89 and $120 per night. The upside is it’s nestled right in the middle of the canyon, close to burned and unburned waterfalls.

Other places to stay the night are mainly centered in the Glide area.

Waterfalls of the North Umpqua

There are numerous waterfall hikes in the North Umpqua, typically beginning right around Glide. For the sake of simplicity, I’m going to highlight two burned and two unburned waterfall hikes right off Highway 138 that are normally accessible in winter. Other waterfalls will be open too, but they might take more adventuring, may be snow-covered or could be closed by gates. As ever, explore at your own risk.

Burned: Susan Creek Falls (1 mile round-trip)

This hike is fascinating for a number of reasons, but the reason I enjoyed it most was the ability to bask in winter sunshine while doing the hike. Traditionally, this trail would be deeply shaded below its combination of western red cedar, incense cedar, Douglas fir, hemlock and other flora. But after the burn, the forest was quite open, allowing for a hiking experience that felt similar to central or eastern Oregon.

The forest here burned hot, but there are still trees alive, and it’s fun to pick out the green in the canopy as you walk below them. Susan Creek Falls itself, a roughly 50-foot cascade, is sunny and open. The Bureau of Land Management has done a nice job rebuilding the trail, guardrails and adding a picnic table post-fire.

Location: Right off Highway 138, east of Glide, just past mile marker 28.

Burned: Fall Creek Falls (1.8 miles round-trip)

This was the trail I anticipated being most bummed about. Before the fire, Fall Creek Falls was a deep rainforest jungle, nestled in a canyon of titanic boulders that felt like something out of Middle Earth. Indeed, the trail and canyon has lost much of its lushness.

Even so, it’s still a great hike with the upside now being able to see a lot more of your surroundings. The views now showcase both 50-foot tiers of the waterfall from multiple angles, and an upside I didn’t expect was better views of the rock formations, including one that looks like a giant turtle.

The pool at the base of the waterfall is still lush, and the area where the trail weaves through the middle of a giant boulder is still a major highlight. I do miss the old Middle Earth version of this trail, but it’s still a path worth trekking.

Location: Right off Highway 138, east of Glide, just past mile marker 32.

Unburned: Watson Falls (1 mile round-trip)

This unburned waterfall might have my vote for the most beautiful waterfall in Oregon — and for my money it offers the best “surprise” moment on a hiking trail.

At 272-feet, Watson is typically considered the third-tallest frequently visited waterfall after Multnomah and Salt Creek falls.

The difference is unlike those two, which are major tourist stops where the waterfall is visible almost right away, Watson is hidden back in the forest. You have to hike a little ways until, at a little rock outcrop, you look up and it’s suddenly there, offering a moment of real surprise at the size and scale of the falls.

Watson is often overlooked by its counterpart Toketee, and I suspect it’s because most people visit in the summer when Watson isn’t nearly as impressive. In the winter, though, I’d say Watson is most beautiful not only in the Umpqua, but maybe in the state.

Location: Just off Highway 138, east of Glide, just past mile marker 62.

Unburned: Toketee Falls (1 mile round-trip)

This is probably the most famous hike in the Umpqua Canyon, and for good reason, as Toketee Falls thunders into a colosseum of columnar basalt at one of Oregon’s truly iconic spots. My recent hike here reminded me it’s not all about the waterfall viewpoint, but the hike itself is really fun, showcasing where the river enters a deep, mossy, mystical gorge in the run-up to the falls.

One thing I love to talk with other hikers here is about Chris Korbulic, an extreme whitewater kayaker from Grants Pass who became the first person to launch a kayak off Toketee Falls. Could you imagine lowering yourself down into that canyon above the waterfall, launching off a 30-foot falls into a boiling cauldron and then dropping another 80 feet into the pool below? Me either, but it’s sure is fun to think about while you’re looking out over one of Oregon’s great special places, untouched by wildfire.

Location: Just off Highway 138, east of Glide, around mile marker 59, turn left onto Toketee Road 34. Keep left at forks and follow signs for large trailhead parking area.

Zach Urness has been an outdoors reporter in Oregon for 15 years and is host of the Explore Oregon Podcast. Urness is the author of “Best Hikes with Kids: Oregon” and “Hiking Southern Oregon.” He can be reached at zurness@StatesmanJournal.com or (503) 399-6801. Find him on Twitter at @ZachsORoutdoors.

This article originally appeared on Salem Statesman Journal: Oregon's Umpqua waterfalls offer beauty even after wildfire