Down by the river: A great Harwich hike with sweet water views

Marco Polo, the Venetian explorer and namesake of the greatest water game ever, traveled the Silk Road, seeking the wonders of the world. I do the same thing every Saturday on Cape Cod.

My treasure trail is shaped like a very bent coat hanger. I depart from Wellfleet and travel a golden triangle that runs from Luke's Liquors in Brewster, home to a wondrous beer selection, to Ocean State Job Lot in Chatham, a mysterious bazaar, to Stop & Shop in Orleans, where countless delicacies jump into my cart.

In recent weeks I have been experimenting with my route, and that's how I ended up rolling along Bay Road in Harwich, a cool semi-shortcut that runs from Route 39 to Route 28 in Harwich. I kept passing a little brown sign that seemed to show two Sasquatches lumbering toward destiny. Several trips later, I realized the figures were hikers, and that there was a little parking lot behind them.

This remarkable discovery smoldered in my brain like a mulch fire. I had to know what was there. There was only one solution: whistle for the Curious Prius and launch my lazy posterior into discovery mode. Thus, we set sail to Harwich and a rendezvous with the D. Isabel Smith Monomoy River Conservation Lands.

I sprang from my gas-sipping chariot and waltzed up to a handy kiosk that was brimming with nutritious information.

According to a sign, D. Isabel Smith was born in Darlarna, Sweden in 1928 and immigrated to the United States shortly thereafter. She was passionate about saving land, and working "with her fellow Volunteers she established the Harwich Conservation Trust in 1988."

Here's the sad part: "Isabel passed away in September of 2006 after a battle with cancer, but she lived long enough for the dedication of the Monomoy River Conservation Lands in her name."

26 bobwhite quail

Here's the mystical, uplifting part: "On the night of her passing at her home in Harwich, 26 bobwhite quail wandered through her yard ... So when you hear bobwhite quail call in these Monomoy River woods, think of Isabel."

What a beautiful idea! I must admit I was a bit choked up, but then I figured Isabel would want me to have a good time. So I headed into the woods, eager to explore 1.25 miles of trails.

I immediately fell in love with the wide, well-maintained trails. Tick season is in full bloom, and those narrow trails with leg-brushing vegetation can be a real problem. Not here. The luxurious path from the parking lot brought me toward the Monomoy River, through an enormously pleasant stretch of forest, occasionally dotted by blueberry bushes.

But I didn't dally, because my river fever was rising. In my slightly kooky opinion, the best Cape trails deliver stunning water views, and the best of the best offer a comfy bench to contemplate the awesomeness. Well, friends, Isabel Smith and her Harwich Conservation Trust pals have created one of the best box seats for nature viewing, high above the Monomoy River at the end of a trail.

Time slowed down as I slouched on the bench, taking it all in. I didn't hear the call of a bobwhite quail, but I saw plenty of birds zooming around the edge of the river. Sloppily, I identified them as chirpy-wirpers and feathered fudgies, but I could be wrong about that.

There was plenty more to explore, and at one point I found a side trail that took me down to the river. I thought of pulling a Huck Finn: building a raft and heading out to exotic locations like Pleasant Bay or Tahiti, but soggy pants tend to distress me.

At one point the trail runs next to the power lines, giving the walk a backcountry Americana flair. It also gave me the chance to sing the classic tune "Wichita Lineman," but unfortunately my rendition caused wildlife to flee.

Refreshed and inspired, I arrived back at the parking lot. The Prius and I were ready for the next big challenge: finding the best discount pickles at Ocean State Job Lot.

Eric Williams, when not solving Curious Cape Cod mysteries, writes about a variety of ways to enjoy the Cape, the weather, wildlife and other subjects. Contact him at ewilliams@capecodonline.com. Follow him on X: @capecast.

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This article originally appeared on Cape Cod Times: Cape Cod hiking: Harwich trail with great river vistas