If You Don't Have Kanazawa, Japan, on Your Radar...What Are You Even Doing?

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Japan has been one of my dream travel destinations since I got my passport in college. I’m a native New Yorker and my mom is half-Japanese, so seeing Tokyo has always been the ultimate goal. But when I was given the opportunity to visit Kanazawa—an off-the-beaten-path city on Honshu Island—I knew I had to go. And I’m so glad I did.

Kanazawa is the perfect destination for someone looking for an experience that combines Japan’s ancient traditions with the modernity the country is famous for. It sounds like an impossible dichotomy, but honestly? This city pulls it off with style. For every generations-old temple or heritage site, there are plenty more exciting new bars and restaurants waiting to be discovered. For me, it was romantic in an Eat, Pray, Love sort of way.

Every day I was in Kanazawa felt like stepping into a real-life Studio Ghibli film. (Lol, I kept waiting to run into a character from My Neighbor Totoro.) Needless to say, I would absolutely return to this city in a heartbeat. And if you'd like to follow my lead, here's where I would stay, play, and eat if I had to do it all over again...

STAY

Hyatt Centric Kanazawa: This hotel is legit stunning and located in the heart of Kanazawa—just steps away from Kanazawa Station, where you can catch the bullet train that'll bring you almost anywhere in Japan. (Not that you'll ever want to leave, though.) It has over 250 upscale rooms and suites that are refreshing and modern and will make you want to do a complete interior overhaul when you get home. The entire property is decorated with local art that captures the playful spirit of this historic city—seriously, you'll feel like you're in a private gallery! Take it from me: there's a strong chance you'll never want to go home.

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PLAY

Admire some art: Saunter around the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art to take in some gorgeous pieces. The museum houses works produced after 1980 that blend old Japan with the new. My favorite? The giant inflatable emoji installation, by Japanese artist Shōei Matsuda. It'll bring you straight-up joy, and your Instagram followers will thank you for the playful explosions of color.

Go to a pottery demo: Where are my interior design girlies at?! Kiln production in Japan has gone uninterrupted for nearly 1,000 years, and some pottery techniques dating back to the prehistoric Jomon period (c. 14,000-300 BCE) have been preserved to the present day. Long story short: Japan is standing on business when it comes to its pottery. And there are some hypnotizing demonstrations at the Kutani Ware Kutani Kosen Kiln that you absolutely must see.

Founded in 1871, this is a fifth-generation family business, and the only ceramic kiln in Kanazawa. Their wares are made from start to finish on-site—from the clay blending and shaping on the wheel to the final coloring. You'll leave wanting to dive into a new hobby, and hopefully with some beautiful ceramic pottery for your home. (And your mom's home. And your best friend's home.) Fair warning: You may at some point cry in your hotel room as you figure out how to pack your haul without breaking anything.

Get tatted: If you're anything like me and treat your body like a passport, you'll want to visit Haruka at Edy Art Studio for a fresh new tat! If you email the studio ahead of your visit, they’ll make sure to have an artist on site who speaks English, should you need it (like I did). Tattoos are still somewhat taboo in Japan, but that’s changing with younger generations. (I was really nervous about how I might be treated with all of my ink, but it was a total non-issue!) I got a tattoo of the year my Grandma was born (1929) in Kanji, aka “Japanese symbols,” which meant a lot to me. The best part was how light-handed Haruka was. She made it all feel like a breeze. (Disclaimer: that's never usually the case. Tattoos do hurt!!)

Enjoy a private geisha experience: Geishas are known as geigi in Kanazawa, and I checked out one of the teahouses where they host guests in the famous Higashi-Chaya District. (ICYMI, geisha translates to "art person," and they're entertainers trained in music and dance. Geisha experiences have been a part of Japanese culture since the 18th century!) Two geigi joined me and some fellow visitors in a private room where they played instruments, sang songs, and taught us some famous Japanese drinking games. Geigi in Kanazawa are especially good at making conversation—they're basically paid to keep the good vibes going! After the session was over, I strolled around the district shops, which felt like a historic walking mall. I was living my Japanese Cher Horowitz fantasy. What more could you ask for?

EAT

Ōmichō-ichiba Market: As a Taurus, the gold leaf soft serve that I had at several points throughout the trip truly spoke to my soul. The first time I grabbed a cone of the sweet stuff was at Ōmichō-ichiba Market, a 300-year-old cultural epicenter where you can buy bouquets of flowers, fresh cuts of meat, all kinds of seafood, and delicious desserts galore. The signature treat is offered at places on every block, though, and I promise it tastes just as good as it looks, so don't sleep on it.

Barrier: If you’re in the mood for a five-star dining experience, look no further. Known for its savory umami stock, this unique restaurant offers a number of beautifully crafted courses with the kind of food presentation usually only seen in photographs. My favorite part was their take on traditional Japanese pressed sushi (or Oshizushi), which is made from layers of cured fish and sushi rice that are placed in a box and squished down, making a tightly packed sushi stack. It's unlike the complicated sushi we're used to in the U.S., where you'll find lots of added ingredients like tempura, mayo, avocado, and cream cheese (which rarely make an appearance in Japan). The beauty is in the simplicity at Barrier, so prepare for your taste buds to be forever changed.

Vin de la Bocchi Farm & Winery: For the cutest family-run winery tour, you need to book a tasting here. Not only are the mountain views incredible, but the wine is beyond fresh, with a sweetness backed up by ripe fruity flavors. (Seriously, you’ll want to take multiple bottles to go.) Fun fact: After the tour, I noticed that a few different restaurants I stopped in were carrying bottles from this local gem. I loved seeing the locals supporting each other. More of that in 2024, please!

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