Dior Pays Tribute to Marlene Dietrich, Paris, and New York

a group of women walking down a runway — Dior Pays Tribute to Marlene Dietrich for Pre-FallPaul Vu

Dior has long wanted to have a fashion show in New York. And on Monday night, under the glow of fluorescent lights shaped as diamond hand signs, the French house did just that, with Anja Taylor-Joy, Rosamund Pike, and NewJeans’ Haerin sitting front row.

For her pre-fall 2024 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri turned her focus on the legendary Marlene Dietrich, who was apparently not only a regular at Dior fashion shows, but a major client and close friend of Christian Dior himself. Known for striking the perfect balance between feminine and masculine, the German-American actress memorably wore men’s suits and ties, which was considered to be unseemly in 1920s Berlin. Peter Philips, Dior Beauty’s creative and image director, also referenced Dietrich in his makeup looks.

According to the show notes, the assortment was meant to honor both Paris and New York through specific prints. Take, for instance, the Eiffel Tower pictured on a crinkled dress, “NEW YORK” embroidered on leggings, and a Dior Book Tote featuring the Empire State Building. The connection between the two cities goes back to Dietrich, “a charismatic, contrarian actress attached to Dior, in life and on screen,” who frequently visited both.

a person wearing a colorful outfit — A model walks the runway at Dior pre-fall 2024.Courtesy of Dior

Jackets were teamed with wide-leg pants, see-through dresses sashayed down the runway with lingerie clearly shown underneath, and perhaps most notably, there was a full American flag ensemble, a curious choice heading into what is expected to be a daunting election year.

After the finale, the event transformed into an after-party, with mini pizzas, sliders, and glasses of champagne flowing freely, and later, a surprise performance by Kim Gordon. It didn’t scream Dietrich, but undoubtedly felt very New York.