Was it cosmic? Cosmos Bistro being operated by Chef Tyler Plagmann.
EVANSVILLE – The Cosmos Bistro space in the McCurdy building had been open barely over a year when it closed abruptly last August.
The quirky, elegant space, which had undergone extensive renovations, wouldn't sit empty for long.
Chef Tyler Plagmann, an Evansville native who spent years building a fine dining resume across the country, has come back to town and is now helming the newly reopened Cosmos. There's a new logo, new French-inspired menu and brave, upscale new feel.
Who is chef Tyler Plagmann?
Plagmann was born in Evansville and lived here until moving to Vermont as a teenager. He began his culinary education there, and then moved on to work in fine establishments in Portland, Boston, Memphis, and New York City, honing his skills along the way.
“It was kind of cosmic how it all came together with Cosmos,” Plagmann said. “It’s really working.”
Back in his hometown, he’s centered himself on cooking the cuisine he loves the most.
“When I first started cooking, I loved Asian and Latin cuisines, but as time progressed, I felt like French was the one cuisine I could cook for the rest of my life and be OK with,” Plagmann said. “There’s so much history and culture in France, and the food is so over the top and can be decadent, but there are rustic and classic dishes like coq au vin or cassoulet, and there’s a lot of borrowing between France, Italy and Spain; I love all that European flair.”
He sees Evansville rapidly progressing from a town that has historically been a test market for chain restaurants to ground zero for a grassroots revolution in food, where local businesses, local produce and unique taste and character are taking center stage.
“That old mindset is changing,” he said. “Also, post-pandemic, a lot of chefs are trying to leave the bigger cities and go places where you can take a deep breath. If I’m going to be here in Evansville, I want to do something great, and I don’t think a real French bistro has been done in here.”
Plagmann's style centers on the details. Meticulous crafting of sauces, compound butters and special garnishes; intricate plating techniques; and the use of less-common proteins such as venison and duck combine to make his dishes powerfully appealing. Some flavor combinations are unusual but pleasing, for example the herbaceous basil flowers we enjoyed with raspberries on a bitter-sweet chocolate tart.
The menu at Cosmos
The Cosmos menu, at this time, offers a prix fixe (pronounced pre-fix, meaning fixed price) meal for $68. This means three courses are offered for a set price, and diners pick from a handful of options for each course. Some options with higher-priced ingredients carry an additional charge.
It also means you can’t pop in for just a cup of soup. The three course meal is a three course meal. Plagmann said the menu will change often and more items will be added soon. Desserts change regularly. This was the menu on the day of our visit, Thursday, May 3.
Starters at Cosmos
There are starters for the table to share for an additional price.
House baked Parker House rolls with flavored butter (we tried the morel and Maldon sea salt butter and it was divine)
A cheese plate with four high-quality cheeses, berries, accompanying spreads and toasted brioche.
Caviar service with blini, creme fraiche and chives.
First courses
A creamy goat cheese and caramelized onion tart in a lightly sweet, tender crust with a spray of fluffy green endive and radish slices.
Fresh oysters on the half shell with bottles of vinegary mignonette sauce and house-made hot sauce.
Scallop crudo (sweet raw sliced scallops) in a lightly spicy “leche de tigre” green chili and lime broth with cucumber slices and sea beans garnish.
Foie Gras torchon, sliced and served with diced d’anjou pear gelee, basil flowers, nasturtium leaves and toasted brioche bread.
Second courses
Onion Soup Gratinee – not the overly heavy dark beefy onion soup, but a lighter version, a rich golden brown and deliciously flavorful, topped with bread croutons and cave-aged Gruyere cheese.
Endive salad with crisp and lightly bitter Belgian endive leaves enhanced with a light vinaigrette, crumbled Roquefort cheese, and candied walnuts.
Third courses
Beef shortribs are the house best seller, slow-braised and served with a rich reduction sauce, honey-thyme roasted carrots, lardons of bacon, local oyster mushrooms, and a dish of housemade butter pasta on the side.
Pithiver savory pie with squash, mushrooms, buttermilk sauce and herb oil.
Halibut, flaky and moist and coated with a whey beurre blanc with braised leeks, tarragon, fennel and smoked trout roe (additional $15)
Duck Breast with caramelized endive, celeriac and tangy vinegar sauce.
Filet of beef with creamed kale, cipollini onions, charred onion bordelaise sauce and blue cheese (additional $10)
Desserts
Desserts will change often, but there will always be a few choices. Those available the day of our visit were
Creme brulee with brandied cherries.
Puff pastry napoleon with custard pastry cream, whipped cream, and homemade caramel sauce.
Salted berry ice cream garnished with a sprinkle of lime granita and wafer cookies.
Bittersweet chocolate tart with whipped cream, raspberries, sweet milk bread crumbles and basil flowers.
Wine List
Wines are available by the bottle or, in some cases, by the glass. Many are French. There is a good selection, with bottle prices ranging from $40 to over $100. Most glasses are priced around $14.
The menu will change frequently, and look for more choices to be added soon. The prix fixe model will continue as long as it is working. Wine and beer are available now. A permit for a full bar with spirits and cocktails will be granted soon.
Cosmos Bistro
Location: 101 SE First St.
Phone: 812-437-5281
Hours: Wednesday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m.
This article originally appeared on Evansville Courier & Press: Cosmos Bistro reopens in Evansville
