Brioni Men’s Fall 2022

Milan’s medieval Palazzo Durini was the stage for Brioni’s presentation, and design director Norbert Stumpfl projected images of Rome, where the brand was founded, onto the frescoed walls in the building, creating a special link between the two cities. “I liked the raw feeling of this palazzo,” the designer said.

While he certainly created an atmosphere for the presentation, the clothes spoke volumes about the luxury Brioni stands for and its craftsmanship, exemplified by an overcoat and jacket in black vicuna with hand-painted leather buttons, or a shirt with a crocodile-skin bib and its sleeves and back in cashmere.

Lightness was top of mind for Stumpfl in creating the fall collection, as he presented a new deconstructed and more comfortable silhouette — without neglecting details such as the leather on the pants’ drawstring, also painted by hand. “This is an old-school way of working but adapted to the new designs, to be in sync with the times,” he said.

The designer was inspired by Jan Bruegel the Elder’s painting “Allegory of Air,” displayed in Rome’s Galleria Doria Pamphilj, both in terms of the palette, from different shades of blue to green, and in “the dynamism and lightness Breughel expressed as he worked to capture the image of air — something that is both intangible yet essential.” A baby alpaca shirt and pants combo drove home the point.

Brioni this season reached out to women, presenting a capsule of six looks that were an extension of the men’s wear designs and cut for the female form, although Stumpfl shied away from providing any projection for this segment at the moment.

Launch Gallery: Brioni Men's Fall 2022