The Best Looks From Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024
Karoline Vitto supported by Dolce&Gabbana
Dolce&Gabbana’s “Supported By” collection brings international designers who may not have the financial ability to stage a show during fashion month to the Milan schedule. This season, the brand chose Karoline Vitto of Brazil, whose body-loving sensual plus-size ready-to-wear have already capitivated fans across the globe. The all-curve model lineup showed off Vitto’s draping savvy, and her signature metal work found its way onto bras and skirts that deserve a spot on racks in every department store. —Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
Karoline Vitto supported by Dolce&Gabbana
Karoline Vitto supported by Dolce&Gabbana
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta under the direction of Matthieu Blazy has been on an Italian world tour, because Italy is really a whole planet unto itself. His shows run a bit long, but it’s not for lack of ideas, as there are so many Milanese, Florentine, Roman, etc.. archetypes to lean into. The elevation of craft and handiness under his tenure are unparalleled elsewhere in modern fashion, and he demonstrated his range capably yet again, starting out with skimpy onesies and bodysuits and delving deeper into outerwear and weighty knits, and some leather trenches that look like they weigh about 50 pounds. The knockout looks were simple cream henley shirts paired with looped woven midi skirts, plus the finale embellished look that was just the right amount of movement and heft. —Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta
The Attico
Seven years after the brand’s inception, designers Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio finally brought The Attico to the runway. While one might expect a Milan Fashion Week debut to unfold in a grand, buzz-worthy venue, the brand opted to position leather couches along a busy Milanese street — a fitting locale for an audacious, streetwise collection that demanded to be seen. Onlookers watched as a mishmash of feathers, fur, and fringe floated down the reimagined runway, infusing playfulness and femininity into an otherwise edgy collection of looks. Complete with padded-shoulder suits, utilitarian trousers, and voluminous trench coats that cowled and wrapped the neck, the brand’s overstated, vintage-inspired flair was on full display. —Elena Plumb, freelance fashion assistant
The Attico
The Attico
Jil Sander
Jil Sander’s refined, cerebral minimalism felt refreshed this season, with intentional circular cutouts, shimmering confetti fringe, and hooded tops providing contrast to the pleated, oversized wardrobe staples that make up the brand today. This season provided some of the finest daywear Lucie and Luke Meier have produced yet, with shirt dresses, Bermuda shorts, and suiting that embody the spirit of Jil Sander’s craftsmanship and substance without weighing the wearer down. —Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
Jil Sander
Jil Sander
Dolce&Gabbana
Entitled “WOMAN,” Dolce&Gabbana’s latest collection sought to harness the essence of femininity: grace, allure, and power. With a boardroom-meets-bedroom concept juxtaposing authority and sensuality, pinstripe jackets were paired with thigh-high stockings and oversized blazers were twisted and cropped to reveal lingerie underneath. Apart from a couple leopard-spot coats, the 79-look collection was almost entirely black and white—a surprising departure from the bold colors and elaborate, mismatched prints that have long distinguished the brand. But despite this shift in perspective, the D&G DNA was as palpable as ever, centering signature codes like delicate black lace and capturing the seductive aura that has anchored the brand identity since the ’80s. —Elena Plumb, freelance fashion assistant
Dolce&Gabbana
Dolce&Gabbana
Andreādamo
Andreadamo brings sex appeal the modern way, and in high quantities. This season was no different: cutouts, draped skirts, and body-skimming tops abounded, in his usual restrained color palette. It was great to see Adamo focus on strong outerwear offerings for the customer who needs daytime options, aside from the glitterati who are bold enough to wear bodysuits as whole outfits. We’re calling it now: the bodysuit is the new going out dress. —Kevin LeBlanc, fashiona associate
Andreādamo
Andreādamo
Ferragamo
Ferragamo’s new direction under Maximilian Davis finally found its footing with one of the highlights of the week. It feels like Davis undid his belt a bit and finally took a breath, after last season’s beautifully executed but rather rigorous display of modern minimalism. The green leather and sharp suiting paired against flouncy white dresses that had geometric novelty details, plus an arousing bright blue and sage green palette was the spring refresh the city needed. The shoes were a true highlight, bringing home the collection and reminding us all where Ferragamo started. —Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
Ferragamo
Ferragamo
Ferragamo
Gucci
Sabato De Sarno’s highly anticipated debut at Gucci delivered—IRL and virtually. The luxury brand generated ample buzz for its first presentation under the new creative director by wiping its Instagram page and changing the venue last-minute. The result? To quote De Sarno himself, “It’s a story of joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamour, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words—words in artworks, words in pictures, words in spaces, just words.” It was also a story of oxblood, platform loafers, and a front row featuring Kendall Jenner, Bad Bunny, and our favorite hot Irish guy Paul Mescal (on the penultimate day of summer, no less).—Claire Stern, digital director
Gucci
Gucci
Sunnei
Sunnei’s shows challenge convention in ways that are equally farcical and sardonic. This season, Sunnei invited guests to sit stadium style and judge the looks as they walked the runway with numbered paddles, not unlike at a voguing ball or auction house. The result was one that winked at consumer and critic culture in fashion, but also one that invited viewers’ guts to speak for them. With lots of classic body-skimming knits, striped sack dresses, and silky slips, there were a few 10s in the mix. —Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
Sunnei
Sunnei
Tom Ford
hot, slinky, 70s was the vibe at Tom Ford’s SS24 runway show, Peter Hawking’s first collection as the newly-appointed creative director. The collection was still very much Tom Ford-esque, a sensibility that makes sense considering Hawking and Ford worked together for 25 years. There was fringe, there was leather, there were metallics. Black, brown, and green shades were accented with chunky gold accessories. The shorts were short, the button downs: open. There was some romance thrown in, too, with shirt ruffles, jewel-toned silks and velvets, and low-cut backs. This is a collection both for Diane Keaton and Saturday Night Fever, but all very much set in 2023. The child of the two eras is summed up in one look: 70s-style blazers with hot pants. Enough said.—Madison Rexroat, fashion & accessories assistant
Tom Ford
Tom Ford
Moschino
Without a Creative Director currently at the helm, Moschino enlisted four different stylists to collaborate on the brand’s SS24 presentation. Drawing inspiration from Franco Moschino’s archive, the ensuing collection was not a parade of four different aesthetics, curated by four legendary stylists: Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Lucia Liu, and Kate Grand. The show opened with a slew of wearable classics, which, in contrast to the brand’s typical extravagance and eccentricity, was a Moschino-esque act of defiance in and of itself. The following segments highlighted his oft-overlooked romanticism, his knack for subversion, and finally, his iconic boldface typography. By reinterpreting all of the designer’s most legendary signifiers, the 40th anniversary showcase was a beautiful celebration of the brand’s range. —Elena Plumb, freelance fashion assistant
Moschino
Moschino
Blumarine
Angels and butterflies were the chosen motifs at Blumarine’s SS24 showing, a demonstration of lightness, airiness, and freedom. From flowing strands of fabric to asymmetric ruffled skirts to strategically-placed draping, the collection embodied movement. Butterfly-shaped thongs were met with clear PVC dresses and mesh cutouts, a nod to Blumarine’s modern-day free spirit. Both goddess and fairy, the Blumarine wearer doesn’t have ceilings or limits, only the sky. —Madison Rexroat, fashion & accessories assistant
Blumarine
Blumarine
GCDS
Giuliano Calza of GCDS is the rebel child of Milan Fashion Week, always serving up a youthful take on the many interests he’s accrued over his years working in fashion around the globe. His streetwear-infused ethos took on a sporty, preppy edge this season with lots of leggy looks (a trend is brewing!) alongside cropped rugby shirts, polos, and of course a heavy dose of sprinkle, shimmer, and slink for the street style stars and pop divas he dresses. —Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
GCDS
GCDS
Prada
The Prada show is the ultimate barometer of where the style set is at during fashion month. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons always throw down the hammer with their runway, and they aren’t afraid to delve into ugly, murky territory either. This season was no exception: The set took cues from their men’s show in June, replete with actual slime dripping from the ceiling and dividing the runway. The opening series of jellyfish dresses made it look as if the models had just run through the slime, only to emerge on the other side in pretty pastels. Elsewhere, prints appeared misconfigured on fringed shirts and belts and barn jackets were pre-distressed and worn over curlicued metallic shift skirts and patchwork leather dresses. The 1920s met the 2020s. Further, the shoulders and sleeves of shirts were exaggeratedly huge while the waist was nipped in, and every look had a satin pump or kitten heel.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
Prada
Prada
Prada
Genny
Genny’s Sara Cavazza Facchini is celebrating 10 years at the brand’s helm, and her SS24 collection was a celebration of her unique creative vision. Anchored in her signature color, white, complemented with accents of yellow and rose gold, the assortment is meant to reflect a woman’s light, beaming aura. This theme extends through nearly all 48 looks, in addition to her signature “X” motif, but the color palette starkly shifts with the finale, which was all done in a deep, sumptuous red, oozing sensuality and leaving a lasting imprint in the audience’s minds.—Elena Plumb, freelance fashion assistant
Genny
Genny
Max Mara
Max Mara’s fresh, leggy spring/summer collection drew inspiration from the Women’s Land Army, a coalition of women across classes and races in 1940s England who learned how to tend to the land and feed the troops. The bright blooms of a summery day spent in the fields inspired the opening series of pastel workwear essentials. The uniforms of yore were reimagined in a metropolitan, decidedly Max Mara way, belted and paired with heels to bring the vision to modern day.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
Max Mara
Max Mara
Etro
At Etro this season, creative director Marco de Vincenzo lightened up on the plaids and polka dots, but still leaned into Western motifs with sweeping mermaid skirts, oversized shirting, and the classic pattern clashing the house is known for. The finale included some knockout dresses and separates that juxtaposed brocade and jacquard jackets and tops.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
Etro
Etro
Diesel
Crowds gathered in the pouring rain for a chance to witness Diesel’s SS24 runway presentation, which designer Glenn Martens made free and public-facing in the name of inclusivity. Models stomped down the red carpet-style runway to the beat of hard techno, matching the mood of the brazen, steely collection that was unfurling. Martens’ love of denim was as apparent as ever, but the designer enacted his own twist on the fabric with devoré: a burning technique that makes garments appear almost as though they were disintegrating in real time. Jerseys and silks were also distressed, evoking an essence of grit and recklessness consistent with the brand’s rough-around-the-edges identity.—Elena Plumb, freelance fashion assistant
Diesel
Diesel
Roberto Cavalli
Welcome to the jungle! For his SS24 show, Roberto Cavalli frontman Fausto Puglisi adorned the Italian Stock Exchange in lush greenery—an apt setting for the vibrant, tropics-inspired collection he sent down the runway. The collection was an ode to the exoticism that Cavalli himself relished, complete with vivid florals, animal motifs, and a breezy ’70s flair. Apart from the cheetah-print tunics and snakeskin bell bottoms, the designer most notably emulated the pink flamingo feather through swinging tassels and fringed edges. Bold and risqué, each of Puglisi’s looks effectively tap into a woman’s sense of fearlessness and ferocity.—Elena Plumb, freelance fashion assistant
Roberto Cavalli
Roberto Cavalli
No. 21
Alessandro Dell’Acqua of No. 21 is so Italian it hurts. His collections riff on classic silhouettes hailing from the south, specifically the women of Naples, whom he frequently draws inspiration from. Shrunken cardigans and sweaters, plus killer paillette dresses and skirts, pair over lace bra and briefs. The mood this time around was more undone than usual, with a wedding (or even funeral) vibe, contrasted by scrunched-up socks and bare feet. Because nothing can stop a woman on the go.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
No. 21
No. 21
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti is not one to send magnified shapes or dramatic silhouettes down the runway, but that doesn’t mean that she won’t deliver something special. The magic of her pieces lie in their lightness—whether it’s a wispy chiffon gown or a finely-tailored pantsuit, the silhouettes fall along a woman’s curves and accentuate her natural figure. In the walkways of the centuries-old Sforzesco Castle, the designer’s ethereal, goddess-like gowns caught the wind, creating an air of drama that was subtle and effortless.—Elena Plumb, freelance fashion assistant
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
Fendi
Fendi held the opening slot of the week, and creative director Kim Jones sent out his most mature collection for the house yet. It was full of sensible daytime separates—like cropped pants with delectable croc jackets and light shirting—plus a few standout beaded dresses that shimmied and sparkled. The restricted color palette of canary, orange, chocolate brown, and cornflower blue resulted in a geometric, totally Milanese collection.—Kevin LeBlanc, fashion associate
Fendi
Fendi
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