Beauty! Delafield restaurant I.d. ranked as most beautiful in Wisconsin by People magazine

DELAFIELD - What makes a restaurant the most beautiful in Wisconsin? Would you believe a free-spirited hodge-podge design that, like the ingredients in the menu items, somehow comes together in an effective way.

At least, that's the way Joe Heppe, the executive chef at I.d., looks at his surroundings, and his menu, as he tries to impress guests in a manner that stands out. Certainly, it works well enough to earn recognition from the editors of OpenTable, who listed the downtown Delafield restaurant among the 50 most beautiful in the nation and at the top of Wisconsin.

The list, and I.d., were featured in the May 1 issue of People magazine, putting the restaurant before the eyes of those who likely have never stepped into the eatery that Geronimo Hospitality Group transformed after acquiring what was then called Andrew's in 2016.

It's a mix that works well inside the Delafield restaurant

For Heppe, the first thing likely to start a conversation among first-time guests are the chandeliers — there's a lot of them, 15 or 16, he said — but it's the more subtle elements that create the sense of beauty.

"When you first walk into I.d., it's got the reclaimed wood, so those natural tones set yourself at ease a little bit — for me, personally, at least," he said. "It creates a comforting environment."

Guests also can't help but notice the "strong art pieces with bold colors," Heppe added, and perhaps the stressed steel in the private dining room, as well. He senses what the designers and company leaders had in mind, even if it's hard to define, as they drew inspiration from restaurants regionally and coast to coast.

"It's kind of a little bit of a hodge-podge if you take it apart, but combined together, it works," he said, admitting he isn't sure how much of it was strategic or intentional, though he's certain the company had an idea in mind. "I think the intention was to just to make a cool restaurant, and then to get chefs in there to make cool food."

Executive chef finds atmosphere inspirational for I.d. menu

In that regard, the menu and the dining room are a matching set.

"The design pieces translate well into the cuisine that we like to serve," Heppe said. "What I mean by that is that you've got different global influences and different styles of cuisine that are incorporated into the menu with bold flavors. ... The menu at times can be picked apart and look a little disconnected in comparison to an Italian restaurant or a steakhouse, but that's where that design element mimics our cuisine."

Heppe, 44, joined I.d. in 2017, a year after the restaurant opened at 415 Genesee St. (Suite 1) in the popular historic central district of the city. A Hartland native, Heppe imported his culinary background, which includes experiences in Milwaukee, Madison and Chicago — the latter of which included an eatery with a prohibition-era speakeasy design, complete with an Al Capone portrait.

So, yes, atmosphere matters. For him, I.d.'s atmosphere inspires him as executive chef inside a restaurant that he helped transform in 2018 into a shared-plate eatery.

"When you are in the environment that has the creative design elements that you're exposed to, it helps with the creative process of (putting) food on the plate and how we present our food," Heppe said. "We want to make sure it fits the vibe. When you have all those pieces that fit together, you have a much more cohesive dining experience."

People magazine and OpenTable put I.d. at the top

Of course, OpenTable's tastes for this particular rating tended toward the aesthetic, not the food.

The online resource, which says it serves the interests of restaurants of all sizes and diners seeking exceptional experiences, put together its list of 50 beautiful restaurants — one each for every state — for People's 2024 Beautiful-themed issue for the magazine's 50th anniversary year.

"America’s restaurants really show up in the design department — we’re talking fairytale-inspired gardens, tropical rooftop escapes, and avant-garde art installations — making it difficult to choose just one as most beautiful in each state," People magazine noted in promoting the OpenTable rankings. "These super-stylish stunners deliver unforgettable dining experiences. There are mountaintop chalets with modern rustic touches, glammed-up Art Deco mansions with a view, and mirror-and-glass paneled sky-high stunners."

Concerning I.d.'s atmosphere, OpenTable looked up and down and found delight. "The showstopper here is the ceiling, painted with confetti-hued pop art that matches the dining room's lively, playful energy," they said.

The notoriety certainly satisfies Heppe, who noted how he can now take pride working as executive chef in both I.d. and the Red Circle Inn, the restaurant that dates back to 1848 in Nashotah. Both are part of the Geronimo Hospitality Group.

"I've got the oldest restaurant as well as the most beautiful restaurant in Wisconsin. I'll take them both," he said.

Contact reporter Jim Riccioli at james.riccioli@jrn.com.

This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: I.d. restaurant in Delafield makes People's most beautiful list