Not everyone knows who Peter Do is – but they will.
The 29-year-old designer has quickly become the most talked about new-name in fashion. Do refuses to show his face in photos, which is an interesting demeanor given today's world of oversharing. Often spotted in a baseball cap and high turtleneck hitting just below his nose, Peter Do does absolutely no advertising and relies on his Instagram to capture people into his aesthetic of powerful yet wearable designs.
Do – whose fourth ever collection has just launched in 40 of the top global retailers – is included in Bergdorf Goodman's RADAR initiative along with eight other emerging designers. BG RADAR gives a unique platform to next-gen fashion talent through physical store space in the iconic department store, digital marketing, events and more.
"We have a long history of a lot of discovery," Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman's fashion director and Senior Vice President told In The Know.
After winning the 2014 LVMH Award post-graduation from The Fashion Institute of Technology, Do landed a one-year contract at Céline under Pheobe Philo and then went on to spend time at Derek Lam before starting his own namesake label.
Strong silhouettes and statement suiting is nothing new, but there is something upon first glance at a Peter Do garment that makes you stop and think. It's a refreshing and advanced perspective on what already exists and deeper dive into the world of impeccable tailoring.
Peter Do's Fall 2020 collection is full of wins. There's an assortment of chic bolero jackets and shrug knits that perfectly compliment each other. Luxe leathers and rich fabrications lay the foundation of it all. This season's hero item comes in the form a waterproof, reversible trench coat – a piece Do has been perfecting for years. However, it's the pair of two-toned trousers with contrasted leather that will undoubtedly make it into every fashion girl's closet.
In this day and age, where moving from one trend to the next is considered fashion, Peter Do's sustainable collection of clean, cool construction is very much on time.
In The Know's Laura Galvan caught up with Do inside the BG Restaurant at Bergdorf Goodman during New York Fashion Week. Learn more about the soon-to-be household designer from our conversation below:
I was at a student at FIT when you won the 2014 LVMH Graduate prize - How did that change the course of your life?
That was my fashion boot camp. I was 23-years-old and I was the youngest designer in a French house at Céline. I had no idea what I was doing. It was really hard and I learned a lot. I was thrown into that and I had to learn really quick to adapt. I got to have many other really great opportunities since. After Céline, I left and got a job at Derek Lam and then I left because I wanted to do my own thing and now here we are...
Describe Peter Do's aesthetic in 3 words.
This is really hard. It’s not minimal, it’s clean -- Versatile and fun.
How does it feel to see your work in the iconic doors of Bergdorf Goodman?
Bergdorf [Goodman] is where I discovered Celine for the first time. It was 2012. I walked in and saw this amazing coat and I was like ‘who the hell made this amazing coat?’ So, Bergdrof Goodman is where I first found out about Celine. It’s come full circle.
The brand has been celebrated for mastering tailoring and suiting. How are you constantly perfecting that craftsmanship?
I think what makes our suiting special is that it is truly made for a women’s body. A lot of time we take a men’s blazer and we alter it, but everything is made from scratch. The sleeve, the chest piece, the canvas. Even the fabric we develop from scratch. We constantly do fittings. The shoulder pads are different and the lining is different so that’s what makes our suiting different. It’s actually made for a women’s body.
You've been working on perfecting a waterproof, convertible trench for years. What was the most complicated part about getting it right?
It was difficult because everyone has a trench coat. I didn’t want to make another basic trench coat. That’s what we struggled with the most. It took a very long time to perfect the shape and it’s waterproof. It’s very functional.
Can you talk about the role of sustainability at Peter Do as a young designer?
We are aiming to ban all plastic by the end of the year. We already banned single use plastic in the studio. Every time someone brings in a plastic cup in, [to the office] I deduct the clothing allowance. Everyone has started to bring their own cups now.
Our hanger process changed to paper hangers instead of plastic hangers. All of our plastics are compostable and biodegradable, so by the end of 2020 we are completely stopping plastic.
Which other new designers should we be keeping our eye on?
One of my good friends started the brand Orseund Iris. She’s [Alana Johnson] a really good friend of mine and we started our brands at similar times. She’s doing really well. I love her brand. Orseund Iris, that’s the one.
Where do you see your brand in the next decade?
We want to do a show next and I want to open a boutique in New York within five years. That’s our short-term goal. I want to build an atelier in New York and bring back the craft of the garment district. That’s one of our goals. Just build a company where everyone’s excited to go to work and are treated really nicely. I want to build a nice company. We want to show the world that it’s possible to be nice and chic...You do better work when you’re happy.
It’s really not easy to stick out in this space of fashion and you are doing it. Elizabeth von der Goltz told Vogue that "we haven’t seen a new designer of this caliber in a long time.”
It’s kind of surreal because we are so far in Brooklyn. I really don’t go out. So, when we get all of this pretty amazing news and press, we are really humble to be recognized for the work that we do. I just hope that we are starting a trend where people can see that you can be yourself and you can be nice and kind and do your job.
Lastly, Who is the Peter Do girl?
We always say that we make day-wear for the women who make the most out of her day. Anyone who makes the most out of there day and looks good doing it -- that’s the Peter Do women.