N.Y. Fashion Week sets new trend with shortened schedule

NEW YORK, Sept 3 (Reuters) - New York Fashion Week is setting a new trend for September with a shorter, more exclusive schedule of fashion designers and brands.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has condensed the official New York Fashion Week calendar from six to five days and nights under the leadership of newly-elected chairman, designer Tom Ford.

"We're conscious of people's time and budget," CFDA President and Chief Executive Steve Kolb told Reuters on Tuesday. "We've gotten feedback over the last few seasons that the longer schedule was difficult for editors and buyers and guests of fashion shows."

49 PHOTOS
NYFW S/S 2020 designer inspiration
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NYFW S/S 2020 designer inspiration

Christian Siriano

“This season's Spring 2020 collection was inspired by modern pop artists Ashley Longshore and Jeff Koons. Their use of playful, bright and bold line inspire unexpected textiles with a hint of surrealism for evening wear that is modern and elegant.” 

Christian Cowan

"This collection is my most personal to date. It is focused on childhood memories of my family in Spain. The women of Moaña who all have a relaxed strength in everything they do."

L’AGENCE

"SS20 reflects a soft feminine tone, with an emphasis on prints and textured fabrics. Suiting plays a must-have in the Spring Collection."

Romeo Hunte

“Business Street; the new uniform” 

Elie Tahari

"The inspiration for the Elie Tahari Spring Summer 2020 collection comes from the streets of Soho in the 70's."

Moon Choi

"This season we played with string and straps, inspired by a spy’s mapping of crime on a board and we also explored parachute construction. As spies use parachutes to disappear from the scene, I pictured a very romantic and delicate parachute dress that the spy might wear, where as they walk the dress increases in volume like a parachute. The wrapping and draping techniques throughout the collection represent how delicate and sensitive spies are, and how lonely they feel once they feel safe from the outside world."

Dennis Basso

"Refined modern and elegant"

LEYII

"The theme of LEYII’s Spring Summer 20 collection is Blossoming Love, demonstrating the beauty of blooming flowers that is reminiscent of a woman falling in love."

I AM CHEN

“SS20 is inspired by California in the 60’s.”

Cong Tri

"Just like little jewels that welcome the new day, dew drops cast the most vivid colors in my garden: the green hue of young leaves; the vibrant tones of flowers; the dark shade of the earth." 

SONGTA

“SS20 is inspired by “uniform fashion” created by middle school students in Shenzhen.”

Tanya Taylor

"Birds of Paradise"

RIZHUO

"Xia, is a unique cultural characteristic of China, with this collection, we wish to seek the transformation of the Xia spirit in a quiet and spiritual state."

Pamella Roland

“Our SS20 collection is a continuation of the luxurious aesthetic and level of quality that Pamella Roland is known for.”

Shoshanna

"The Spring 2020 collection was inspired by the Balearic Islands. Shoshanna focused on texture; introducing new ways to print on cottons, eyelets, and laces. The collection offers vibrant florals, Spanish inspired tile patterns, and reworked vintage prints."

LIE

“LIE Spring Summer 2020 Collection is inspired by UNESCO’s Cultural Heritage of Humanity known as ‘Haenyeo.’"

THREEGUN

“With this SS20 collection, we hope to showcase the strength of Chinese manufacturing.”

All Things Mochi

"The Spring/Summer 2020 collection was inspired by traditional Filipino culture, with emphasis on the art of colorful embroidery, as well as the Pahiyas Festival, which celebrates the farmers’ bountiful harvest."

Audra

“Be not afraid of growing slowly, Be afraid of only standing still.”

SemSem

"The collection is inspired by founder Abeer Al Otaiba’s Egyptian heritage and dramatic style. It is organic and geometric, lucid yet magical. I like the idea that it might capture a beautiful stillness in the midst of movement and chaos.” –Charles Youssef, Design Director

Rebecca Taylor

"This season, I was inspired by an exhibition I visited at the Serpentine gallery in London. The exhibition titled 'Visionary Drawings,' was by Emma Kunz, a Swiss/German artist in the 40’s. I was so inspired by her use and juxtaposition of color in the linear and graphic drawings. She worked solely in graphite and color pencils, mapping out delicate yet geometric lines that she then color blocked in beautiful and unusual color combinations. This inspired the alchemy of color/textures in our spring collection."

Noon by Noor

Describing the Spring 2020 collection, Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa said, "Lightweight fabrics and fluid silhouettes are balanced with bold lively colors that emit confidence.” Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa added, "The details speak volumes as they - literally and figuratively - tie back to the source of our inspiration: Bahraini pearls and seashells."

Claudia Li

"Phase II"

BAJA EAST

“LIVE IN THE HIGHER VIBRATION”

LaQuan Smith

"I will not, not be rich."- Renata Klein 

KAIMIN

"Introspective Prism: Refract different types of self, Mutate desire and identity, Evolve in spirit and form."

Gee x Spectra Design Studio

"A zero-waste and cruelty-free process with the ability to make 3D Printed fashion take part in daily wearable pieces."

MARKGONG 

“Inspired by the film 'Into the Wild', the SS20 collection aims to evoke the feeling of a pleasant and carefree lifestyle.”

Fengyi Tan

Upholding the principle of minimalism, FENGYI TAN takes her Spring/Summer 2020 inspiration of colors incorporating techniques from calligraphy, paintings and porcelain glazes found in the art from the Song Dynasty. Porcelain veins and the then popular pleated skirt from the Song Dynasty were renewed in her designs with the help of modern knitwear techniques.

Bronx and Banco

"SAHARA follows the journey of a beautiful Bedouin with each piece drawing inspiration from self-discovery and our ability to seek out beauty in even the harshest of environments. The Bronx and Banco SS2020 collection borrows tones, textures and splashes of subtle colour from desert landscapes, it’s inhabitants, the silhouettes of a sweeping sand dune, the warmth of an idyllic sunset and our own personal journey towards the oasis.”

BLDWN

“BLDWN's Spring 2020 Collection draws inspiration from the dual nature of Marfa, Texas: One part quiet, West Texas ranching town and the other, an eccentric art community established by the late American artist Donald Judd. We've twisted the American suburban feeling that influenced the collection by pairing classic shapes with clean, modern lines, neutral pops of color and tactile fabrications."

Tadashi Shoji

"Japan, where what if comes true."

Trina Turk

“Breezy beach days inspired by the fantasy of Suzy in Fellini’s ‘Juliet of the Spirits.’"

Laurence & Chico

Laurence & Chico's Spring/Summer 2020 collection is titled "Love Letters To New York" and inspired by New York City through the eyes of Laurence & Chico.

IISE

“For Spring/Summer 2020’, IISE re-imagines itself as a dominating corporate entity in South Korea.”

PH5

“Rebel from Ivy”

3ZM x Luyang By Yanglu

“Mid-Autumn Festival"

CHOCHENG 

“The mystery and the glamour of headscarves and oversized sunglasses.”

GRAVITAS

"Our mission is to catalyze confidence. This collection is about wardrobe MVPs that bring innovation, versatility, and empowerment to our lives. We want you to be the hero – the  MVP – of your story."

ALTERRE

“Join us this Summer for a retro beach party, inspired by the swinging space age on Cocoa Beach”

Mikage Shin 

"Skin and Warmth Collection” came from the Italian great architect, Gio Ponti’s philosophical aesthetics. Even though buildings and architectures were inorganic things, he examined unique surface and structure to make them more playful as if they were vigorously living things."

HIUMAN

HIUMAN drew her Spring/Summer 2020 inspiration from the Qin Dynasty, specifically referencing the color of the period’s famous terracotta warriors. The collection seeks to integrate antiquity with the contemporary period and explore the philosophy behind the Qin Dynasty’s costume culture, with the collection’s color palette divided into three segments referencing the legendary terracotta warriors.

Tribe Alive

"Our fall line is inspired by the desert sunset and clean architecture of the southwest."

Leaf Xia

Leaf Xia's Spring/Summer 2020 collection is focused on the traditional Tang Dynasty aesthetic with a modern feminine edge. Drawing inspiration from the motifs of the period including the peony, koi fish, and traditional paintings of maids, the color palette includes gladiola red, which serves as a strong accent throughout the collection.

S'RA

“Our SS20 collection is inspired by the beauty of one of the temple on Bangkok called 'WAT ARUN', which can be translated to ’Temple of the DAWN.'” - Sarawalee Lusamlit
 

AMNESIA

“For AMNESIA, our capital and home, Budapest, and our country, Hungary are an endless source of inspiration. For the SS20 collection, we used well-known attributes of the Budapest armour, and we designed the pieces of the collection in the trendy colours of our national flag. We built internationally well-know hungaricums into the design as well, but the characteristic black and white striped and dotted looks will also be part of the collection.”

Zero + Maria Cornejo

“The whole idea is to do something creative with things that have had a life before,” says Maria Cornejo. “It’s about making something new and re-imagining things. Re-create, re-imagine, re-cycle. How do we get creative with less?”

AKNVAS

For the AKNVAS spring summer 2020 collection, designer Christian Juul Nielsen is inspired by the 80’s power dressing. Creating beautifully draped tops and dresses out of menswear shirting fabric, Nielsen has continued to establish a world where traditional menswear fabrics are crafted into feminine silhouettes for a strong independent woman. 

Eva Xu

Designer Eva Xu aims to restore the prosperity and inclusiveness of the Late – Qing Dynasty in her Spring/Summer 2020 collection. Redefining classic female costumes in Qing Dynasty with western style, Eva Xu explores new forms of womenswear at the current stage.

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For the most part, brands who bore the brunt of the condensed calendar and did not make it onto the official schedule were those with a "very small retail footprint," Kolb said.

"You have to think who as a top editor of a magazine... are they going to want to sit there and watch that show or, as a buyer, are they going to want to sit there and eventually buy that collection?" Kolb said.

Highlights during the week include Tommy Hilfiger and Zendaya's new collection, which will be shown at the Apollo Theater in Harlem, and The Blonds, who will team up with the Broadway musical "Moulin Rouge!" for their show.

New York Fashion Week will officially run from Sept. 6 until Sept. 11. (Reporting by Alicia Powell in New York Editing by Sonya Hepinstall)

36 PHOTOS
Prettiest looks from NYFW F/W 2019
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Prettiest looks from NYFW F/W 2019
Oscar De La Renta F/W 2019
Oscar De La Renta F/W 2019
Lela Rose F/W 2019
Lela Rose F/W 2019
Michael Kors F/W 2019
Michael Kors F/W 2019
Naeem Khan F/W 2019
Naeem Khan F/W 2019
Ralph Lauren F/W 2019
Ralph Lauren F/W 2019
Coach 1941 F/W 2019
Zimmermann F/W 2019
Zimmermann F/W 2019
Ulla Johnson F/W 2019
Ulla Johnson F/W 2019
Tadashi Shoji F/W 2019
Tadashi Shoji F/W 2019
Carolina Herrera F/W 2019
Carolina Herrera F/W 2019
Pamella Roland F/W 2019
Pamella Roland F/W 2019
Marc Jacobs F/W 2019
Marc Jacobs F/W 2019
Tom Ford F/W 2019
alice + olivia F/W 2019
alice + olivia F/W 2019
Prabal Gurung F/W 2019
Prabal Gurung F/W 2019
Christian Siriano F/W 2019
Self-Portrait F/W 2019
Christian Siriano F/W 2019
Brock Collection F/W 2019
Brock Collection F/W 2019
Cushnie F/W 2019
Cushnie F/W 2019
Kate Spade F/W 2019
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