4 Idaho restaurants win Wine Spectator Awards, 2 in Boise. But should we pop the cork?

Each year, grape aficionados scrutinize the annual Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards.

As the self-described “world’s leading authority on wine,” Wine Spectator highlights dining destinations with the best selections.

If you live in Idaho, though? This year’s honors might make your chardonnay taste sour.

Only four Gem State restaurants made the cut.

Two are in Boise. Congratulations, Chandlers and Fork.

As recently as 2020, 11 Idaho restaurants were awarded. In 2021, the number fell to six.

What will 2023 bring? Thunderbird and Mad Dog 20/20 on every local wine list?

Doubtful. It’s important to note that Idaho’s awards plummet doesn’t necessarily mean that our restaurant wine scene suddenly is trending into the trash can.

Let’s be real. Marketing priorities have changed during the COVID-19 era.

Wine Spectator Awards are pay-to-play. Restaurateurs submit an entry fee to be considered. Not all restaurants that enter make the cut.

Capitol Cellars, a past Boise winner, didn’t enter this year’s awards, general manager Logan Smyser Griffin said.

Neither did Richard’s, another former honoree. Speaking by phone, owner-chef Richard Langston said that his restaurant has lowered its wine inventory since the pandemic began. Also, he added, the Wine Spectator return on investment did not feel like it was worth it. Entering next year’s awards, for example, costs $550.

“Even though you’re paying to play,” he said, “and we probably would have gotten the award, we just didn’t feel like it was appropriate at the time.”

Will Richard’s participate again in the future?

“I think we just have to see how things are,” Langston said.

“I don’t want to diminish what Wine Spectator does,” he added. “Our wine program is still very, very important to us. We just didn’t feel like it was the right thing to do this year.”

The latest Wine Spectator Awards recognized 3,169 dining destinations from all 50 states and more than 70 countries, according to a media release. Started in 1981, the awards offer three levels of distinction: Award of Excellence (1,782 winners); the loftier Best of Award of Excellence (1,290) and the top-tier Grand Award (97).

“These awards not only guide our readers to dining establishments with impressive wine lists and outstanding service, but also serve to honor restaurants for their achievements and commitment to maintaining pristine cellars, Wine Spectator Editor and Publisher Marvin R. Shanken said in a prepared statement. “We are thrilled to reveal our 2022 Dining Guide, which points to places where wine drinkers are warmly welcomed.”

Here are the Idaho recipients.

▪ ▪ ▪

Best of Award of Excellence

▪ Chandlers Steakhouse, 981 W. Grove St., Boise.

▪ The Narrows Steakhouse at Shore Lodge, 501 W. Lake St., McCall.

Award of Excellence

▪ Fork, 199 N. 8th St., Boise.

▪ Ill Naso, 480 Washington Ave., Ketchum.