A Quest for Beer's Holy Grail

Westvleteren beer crates in Belgium
Westvleteren beer crates in Belgium

On the last train of the day from Bruges to Brussels, as I realized the irony in fighting jetlag by counting the sheep in the passing Belgian farmland, I momentarily questioned the cost--benefit ratio of my trip. Half a hemisphere from home, with heavy eyelids, sore feet and an iPhone that functioned only as a ticking clock, the ultimate goal of my journey was still nowhere to be found.