The Upside: Rumble in the Jungle -- Margarine, Orangutans, and You

Marc Acito

"Welcome to Jakarta," the sign read. And: "Death Penalty for Drug Traffickers!"

"All that exclamation point needs is a happy emoticon," said my traveling companion, novelist Eve Yohalem.

"Or one of those ADA icons with someone hanging from a noose," I added.