Peasant food: German cuisine tranforms cheap ingredients into gourmet delicacies


Once upon a time, German food was among the most respected cuisines in the world. While it lacked the refinement of French food or the exuberance of Italian, the rich, warmly-accented cuisine was eminently satisfying. Moreover, its emphasis on inexpensive ingredients and robust seasonings meant that a good German cook could produce a delicious, expansive meal for a relatively small amount of money.

Unfortunately, as American consumers became more health-conscious, German food had a hard time making the transition. Designed for a harsh, cold climate, the cuisine tends to be highly caloric, with rich sausages and meat dishes accompanied by carbo-bombing dumplings and peasant breads. Even German vegetables, like sauerkraut and red cabbage, came under attack for their high salt and vinegar content and presumed lack of nutrients.

As wallets tighten, however, it seems like the time is ripe for German food to make a comeback. Its tendency to use cheaper cuts of meat and more plebian veggies makes it perfect for families that are looking to save money. Moreover, by offering smaller helpings and employing a few substitutions, careful cooks can greatly reduce its fat, sodium, and calorie content.

Matthew Weingarten, the Executive Chef at New York's Inside Park restaurant, has experimented with seasonings and preparation methods to subtly update classic German cuisine. His marinated mushroom recipe, which follows, makes a great accompaniment to meat dishes like sauerbraten or tastes great by itself.

If you're interested in exploring German cuisine at length, there are numerous internet sites and a few good cookbooks. In my opinion, however, the classic cookbook is still Jan Mitchell's Luchow's German Cookbook. Best of all, like the cuisine, the book is cheap -- used copies are going for as little as $1!

Click through for Weingarten's great marinated mushroom recipe.