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Givenchy explodes plane for Paris menswear show



PARIS (AP) - Last season, he used Rihanna and Kanye West to grab attention. This season, he exploded a plane.

Givenchy's rebel designer Riccardo Tisci certainly knows how to grab the limelight at Paris Fashion Week.

Here are the highlights of Friday's spring-summer 2015 menswear displays, including show reports from Maison Martin Margiela, Cerutti, Juun J. and Berluti.

GIVENCHY'S EXPLODED PLANE

Decked out in head-to-toe Givenchy, American football player Victor Cruz and Oklahoma City Thunder basketball player Russell Westbrook looked in awe at the spectacle before them.

A huge French plane from 1964, exploded into bits and painted in black, was suspended by steel cables across the circular catwalk. Deconstructed engineering parts hung in the air.

Givenchy commissioned the arresting work from Dutch artist Paul Veroude. The piece took over a month to make.

Who needs A-list pop stars when you can blow up a near-one ton machine?

GIVENCHY

If the plane represented deconstruction, the collection didn't take heed.

Instead, Tisci's rather aggressive show sent out a series of rather conventional sartorial styles that went back in time to his earlier sharp Givenchy menswear.

The sharp-suitedness mixed with the more street black-and-white looks: models sporting skull caps, dark earrings and sometimes knee-length boots with thick white lacing.

The looks were contrasting, but perhaps lacked the subtlety with which one of Paris' most lauded designers is associated.

WILL MARGIELA'S ONE-LEGGED FASHION CATCH ON?

Maison Martin Margiela's restrained, and rather strange, collection tried to set a new fashion trend: one-legged pants.

The show, which mixed baggy sports pants and flowing coats in sanitized white with more sartorial elements, was notable for its uni-leg silhouette.

A black business-like pant leg was twinned with a light gray boucle shorts-leg and thick hiker's wooly socks.

Elsewhere, the staple black pant leg was twinned with a patchwork blue denim drainpipe.

At one point, an otherwise fully clothed model walked out with no pants on at all.

Will it catch on?

BERLUTI'S GARDEN PARTY

Berluti has been world renowned for making leather shows since 1895. Now, for a few seasons, they've been making clothes.

In the front row sat the luxury world's equivalent of the Bourbon monarchy, LVMH's chief Bernard Arnault, and his heirs Antoine and Delphine.

If that's anything to go by, there's a lot of money being bet on this venture.

The collection did not disappoint, with clothes fit for a modern dandy.

Loose-fitting jackets were in enviable shades of beige, cream and mustard.

And the rare inclusion of models in their 50s will appeal to the up-and-coming heritage brand's clientele.

The after-party celebrated the roots of the house founder Italian Alessandro Berluti, with guests treated to Italian-inspired delicacies like champagne risotto in a beautiful garden.

JUUN J. STUDIES FORM

Fashion angels graced the catwalk at Juun J.

In dazzling white, the South Korean designer used billowing monochrome looks to explore pure form and flatness.

Wide-sleeved white tops stretched the torso exaggeratedly from left to right, and uber-baggy pants gave the clothes an ethereal silhouette independent from the bodies wearing them.

It was a neat trick.

The study in form recurred again toward the end of the dizzying 54 looks, with white oversize T-shirts featuring black text or sketches.

Beautifully, the large tubular sleeves stretched out the T-shirt optically to look almost like a piece of flat paper on which the designer had written.

CERUTTI MIXES SUITS WITH LOS ANGELES ATTITUDE

Aldo Maria Camillo subverted the sartorial elegance of Cerutti 1881 Paris with flashes of the color of Los Angeles.

A sporty black singlet was infused with a bright flash of fashion, in the form of a bright red or yellow stripe, and twinned with pants from a suit.

Elsewhere, a loose-fitting suit jacket was twinned elegantly with a silk undergarment shimmering with orange stripes and paisley patterns.

And a beautiful but sober palette in the suits - sand, sage, tobacco and wood - met with highly contrasting and youthful hues of lemon, red, electric blue and orange.

It was a highly styled collection, but will this younger direction appeal to the brand's older clientele?

Join the discussion

1000|Char. 1000  Char.
rockinghorse2k June 27 2014 at 6:41 PM

do pepole wear this crap . **** i make better holloween coustums than this so called fashion .

Flag Reply +39 rate up
3 replies
sirwilhelm June 27 2014 at 7:09 PM

I wouldn't be caught dead wearing that crap.

Flag Reply +30 rate up
mecnsd June 27 2014 at 7:14 PM

I am soooo glad I am unfashionable...this stuff is fugggggggly!

Flag Reply +29 rate up
oldasu June 27 2014 at 7:11 PM

Wear that crap in Philly and get your ass kicked...LOL

Flag Reply +27 rate up
2 replies
jalford627 oldasu June 28 2014 at 8:35 AM

I laughed so hard at this comment, literally cried. Great

Flag Reply 0 rate up
merschyvincht oldasu June 28 2014 at 12:26 PM

LOL - I think that goes for A LOT of places around the world.

Flag Reply 0 rate up
Postalpal June 27 2014 at 7:08 PM

These are about the worst looking rags I've ever seen!

Flag Reply +21 rate up
1 reply
klw4919 Postalpal June 27 2014 at 7:43 PM

This is what you can expect more of as western society and culture decline even further. We are about at the Weimar Republic stage at this point.

Flag Reply 0 rate up
1 reply
Nanu-Nanu klw4919 June 28 2014 at 12:45 PM

Klw you are right on. As we sink into the cesspool of being an amoral society everything else declines. Crappy use of good material.

Flag 0 rate up
bullmesht June 27 2014 at 7:15 PM

Send in the clowns.

Flag Reply +17 rate up
1 reply
gramargo bullmesht June 27 2014 at 11:36 PM

They were already there, all in line in their weird clown costumes and makeup to match.

Flag Reply 0 rate up
mathomps June 27 2014 at 8:27 PM

Laughing at all of the sheep that support "the fashion industry". What a bunch of mindless and blind followers of what they are told is "art".

Flag Reply +17 rate up
winky_dink June 27 2014 at 8:08 PM

I got the identical look for "free" thanks to the seagulls at the beach yesterday.

It was great, got to walk around all day
in a designer outfit and the washer took all the ugliness out when I got home. It
didn't cost me a dime to look foolish.

Flag Reply +16 rate up
1 reply
jalford627 winky_dink June 28 2014 at 8:36 AM

Thanks for the visual and the laugh

Flag Reply 0 rate up
CHUCK June 27 2014 at 9:09 PM

And what in hell is that they are all wearing on their heads? Rediculous!

Flag Reply +15 rate up
1 reply
SPQR CHUCK June 28 2014 at 12:51 AM

used nylons from Paris H

Flag Reply 0 rate up
rlmcanoe June 27 2014 at 7:20 PM

these are not clothes for the real world, I don't know what you would call them, but can you see going to work, food shopping, the beach, movies, I think not, this is crap

Flag Reply +12 rate up
3 replies
aol~~ 1209600

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